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TUFTS UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES
M'ORK'' HANDBOOKS
3 9090 013 417 916
HARNESS MAKING
MDSter Family Library of Veterinary MrnkM^^^
C-^mmings School of Veterinary Medicine at
Ti'fts University
200 Westboro Road ^
North Grafton, MA 01536
HARNESS
MAKING
WITH NUMEROUS EXGRAVIXGS AND DIAGRAMS
EDITED BY
PAUL N. HASLUCK
EDITOR OF "work" AND "BUILDING WORLD,"
AUTHOR OF " HANDYBOOKS FOR HANDICRAFTS," ETC. EIC.
CASSELL AND COMPANY, Limited
LONDON, PARIS, NEW YORK cfc MELBOURNE. MCMIV
ALL EIGHTS RESERVED
PREFACE.
This Handbook contains, in form convenient for
everyday use, a comprehensive digest of tl:e knowledge
of harness making, scattered over more than twenty
thousand columns of Woek — one of the v.eekly
journals it is my fortune to edit— and supplies concise
information on the details of the subjects of "which
it treats.
In preparing for publication in book form the mass
of relevant matter contained in the volumes of Work,
much had to be arranged anew. However, it may be
stated that the greater part of the contents of this
Handbook consists substantially of matter contributed
by a working harness maker.
Readers who may desire additional information
respecting special details of the matters dealt with in
this Handbook, or instructions on kindred subjects,
should address a question to Work, so that it may
be answered in the columns of that journal.
P. N. HASLUCK.
La Be le Salvage, London,
May, 190i.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER
I. — Harness -makers' Tools .
I[. — Harness-makers' Materials .
I [I.— Strap Making and Stitching
IV. — Looping
Y. — Cart Harness
Vr.— Cart Collars . . , .
YIT.— Cart Saddles, Reins, etc.
YIII.— Fore Gear and Leader Harness
IX. — Plough Harness .
X.— Bits, Spurs, Stirrups, and Harness Furniture 111
XL— Yan and Cab Harness 1-"
Index 1^"
I'AGE
9
20
49
57
62
. 75
. 86
. 101
. 107
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
FIG. PAGE
1.— Paring Knife . . .10
2.— Hand Knife ... 10
3.— Kound Knife . . .11
4.— Head Knife . . .11
5. — Cutting Gauge . . .11
6. — Plough or Plough Gauge 12
7.— Side Elevation of
Plough Gauge . . 12
8.— End Elevation of Plough
Gauge . . . .13
9.— Slitting Machine . . 13
10. — Spokeshave . . .13
11. — Edge Trimmer . . 14
12.— Washer Cutter . . 14
13. — Round Punch . . 15
14.— Oval Punch ... 15
15. — Buckle Tongue, or Crew,
Punch . . . .15
16.— Girth Chape Punch . 15
17.— Brace End Punch . lb
18. — Forepart of Brace Enl '•
Punch . . . . 16 I
19.— Hand Punch ... 16
20.— Hand Punch Nipple . 16
21 to 24. — Scalloping Irons . 16
25, 26.— Rolette Punches . 17
27.— Lead Piece ... 17
28.— Wooden Mallet ' . .17
29, 30.— Useful Wooden Mal-
lets 17
31. — Saddlers' Hammer . . 18
32. — Pricking-iron . . .18
33, 34.— Wheel Prickers . . 18
35. — Screw-race . . .19
36.— Single Crease ... 19
37.— Screw-crease . . .19
38.— Checker . . . .20
39.— Beveller .... 20
40.— Compasses ... 20
41. — Race Compasses . . 20
42, 43.— Awl Blades . . 21
44.— Sewing Awl . . .22
45.— Bent Awl .... 22
46, 47. — Harness Needles . 25
48, 49.— Seat Awls ... 23
50, 51.— Hand-irons or Palm-
irons . . . .24
52.— Clamp or Clams . . 24
53. — Clamp for Sewing Shaft-
tugs . . . .25
FIG.
PAGE
54.-
-Home - made Clamp
Holding Work .
25
55.-
-Jaws of Clamp
25
56.-
-Nail-claw ....
23
57.-
-Cutting Pliers .
26
58.-
-Iron Collar Rod
27
59.-
-Steel Seat-iron
27
60.-
-Loop-stick
28
61.-
-Rubber ....
28
62.-
-Straining Fork
29
63.-
-Cutting up Hide .
39
64.-
-Plain Waist Belt .
53
65.-
-Fancy Waist Belt .
54
66.
— Waist Belt with
Pockets ....
55
67.-
-Box Creased Loop .
58
63.-
-Box Creased Loop .
59
69,
70.— Box Creased Lccps
60
71.-
—Horse in Cart Gear
62
72 to 75.— Scotch Brass Gear
Buckles
63
76,
77.— Brass Face-pieces .
64
78.-
—Brass Face-piece .
65
79.-
—Bells and Brush .
65
80,
81.— Brass Hame Plates .
65
82.-
—Brass Oval
66
82 to 85.— Brass Octagons .
66
86.-
—Brass Heart .
66
87,
88.— Brass Stars
66
89,
90.— Brass Hame Knobs.
67
91,
92.— Brass Swing
67
93.
—Ear-piece
07
94.-
—Corner-piece .
67
95.
—Cart Collar without
Side-piece
75
96.
—Cart Collar Lining
79
97.
—Cart Collar Side-piece .
8-1
93.
—Cart Saddle Tree .
87
99.
—Cart Saddle Panel
89
100.
—Cart Saddle Hind
Housing . . . .
93
101.
—Cart Saddle Front
Housing . . . .
93
102
—Set of Leader Gear
103
103,
104.— Hip-strap Chains .
103
105
— Plough Back-band
Hook . . . .
109
106 to 108.— Pelham Bits
111
109.
— Hackney Bit .
111
110
— Bridoon . . . .
111
8
Ha R NESS Ma king
FIG
111,
113.
114.
115.
116.-
117.
118.
119.-
120
121.
122.
125.
124,
127.
123,
liO.
131
132.
133.
134
135
156
137
158.
139.
14-0.
141.
1^2.
143.
144.
145.
145.—
147.
143.
149.
PAGE
112.— Ladies' Horse Bits. 112
— Pelliam Snaffle with
Indiarubber Moutli .
■Hacliney Bit witli
Indiarubber Mouth .
Gig Snaffle
Wilson Snaffle
-Liverpool Bit
—Globe Checlc Curb Bit .
— One-liorn Bridoon Bit .
—One-horned Bridoon
witli Indiarubber
Moutli ....
—Gig Curb Bit .
— Buxton Bit
—Swivelled Bridoon Bit .
125.— Breaking Bits .
— Breaking Bit .
—Snaffle with India-
rubber Moutli
129. — Exercising Bits
— Sliow or Stallion Bit .
— Uouble-mouthed Snaffle
— Ordinary Spur
— Officer's Regulation
Spur ....
— Dress Spur
— Lady's Spur .
— Trousers Spur
-Solid Stirrup .
— Open Button Stirrup .
— Waving Ear Stirrup
—Lady's Stirrup
—Stirrup Slipper
—Safety Stirrup
—Flat Side Wire Front
Buckle ....
—Front Bevelled Buckle
—Bevelled Flat Top
Buckle ....
West End Bevelled Flat
Top Buckle . . .118
Spade Buckle . . 119
■Square Wire Buckle . 119
Chatham Buckle . . 119
112
112
113
113
113
113
113
114
114
114
114
114
115
115
lib
115
116
116
116
116
117
117
117
117
117
117
118
118
113
118
FIG. PAGE
150.— Flat Top Turned-up
Buckle . . . .119
151.— Fluted Buckle . . 119
152.— Swelled Front Bent-leg
Buckle .... 119
153.— Flat Top Cab Buckle .* 119
154.— West End Whole
Buckle . . . .119
155.— Chased Buckle . . 120
156.— Melbourne Buckle . 120
157.— Square Buckle . . 120
158, 159.— Covered Buckles . 120
160, 161. — Part - covered
Buckles . . . .120
162.— Shaft Tug Buckle . . 121
165.— Burgess's Buckle . . 121
164.— Ball Terret . . .121
165.— Plain Terret . . .121
166 to 168.— Ball Terrets . . 122
169 to 172.— Haines . . 123
173, 174. — Bearing-rein Swi-
vels 123
175, 176.— Roller Buckles . 124
177.— Hame Clip . . .125
178, 179.— Breeching Dees . 125
180, 181.— Winkers . . .129
132.— Van Saddle . . .131
135.— Van Saddle Flap . . 131
134.— Van Saddle Panel . . 131
185.— Chain and Leather Gig
Front . . . .140
186. — Chain and Leather Gig
Front . . .141
187.— Chain and Leather Gig
Front . . . .143
183.— Crupper Dock . . 147
189.— Breeching, etc. . . 147
193.— Back-band . . .147
191.— Shaft Tugs . . .147
192.— Four-wheeled Cab Sad-
dle 153
193.— Cab Saddle Tree . . 153
194.— Hansom Cab Saddle . 154
185, 196.— Rein Stops . . 154
197. — Hansom Cab Harness . 155
HARNESS MAKING.
CHAPTER I.
HARNESS-MAKERS^ TOOLS.
Harness making and repairing is a branch of
leather work that can often be undertaken profit-
ably by many persons, and the information given in
the following pages has been adapted specially to
the amateur's requirements. Doubtless the readers
of a companion handbook on " Boot Making and
Mending'' have wished to pursue further the sub-
ject of leather working, and will take up the making
and repairing of harness with pleasure. Aspirants
to more highly skilled work will find " Practical
Saddlery " of the greatest possible use to them,
whilst readers less ambitious may look to '' Leather
Working " for instructions on making a number of
articles, such as bags, portmanteaus, and cases, for
which there is general employment and a conse-
quently great demand. The two books just men-
tioned are issued uniform in style and price with
the present work.
In this handbook it is proposed to treat the sub-
ject of harness making so fully that anyone possess-
ing tact and sense can make a set of harness from
the instructions given, or, at any rate, keep harness
in good repair. A start w411 be made by describing
the tools that will be necessary. In the list given
below% every essential tool is specified and its uses
explained. The tools are very numerous, but the
amateur may dispense with many of them ; for
though all of them may have to be employed by a
10 Harness Making.
tradesman in turning out finished work, an amateur
may be content with a much smaller outfit. The
tools are not bulky, however, and all that are neces-
sary for making a double set of harness could be
carried in a small handbag, excepting, of course,
the mallet and collar-iron.
^^(K^^p^ffHC^'gi^j^^-,;
Fig-. 1. — Parinjif Knife
o
The tools are here classified as («) cutting tools,
(6) punches and tools of percussion, {c) tools for set-
ting out, marking, and ornamenting, ((/) awls and
needles for perforating, (c^) tools for gripping and
holding work, (/") tools used in stuffing collars
and saddles, and (7) miscellaneous. It may be re-
marked that saddlers' tools, as well as harness-
makers', are included in this chapter.
With regard to cutting tools, a paring knife (Fig.
1) and a hand knife (Fig. 2) are used for cutting
thread, paring down, and splicing, and are other-
wise generally useful. The round knife (Fig. 3) is
used by saddlers instead of the hand knife for cut-
ting, splicing, and thinning leather ; they can be had
in different sizes, suited to light and heavy work ;
their chief use is in thinning the edges of leather.
Fi^. 2.— Hand Knife.
and for giving a rounded appearance to lined straps,
such as nosebands, traces, breeching straps, etc.
The head knife (Fig. 4) is used for cutting the holes
for buckle tongues and cutting any circular shapes
or holes in leather.
Fig. 5 is a cutting gauge made in iron or wood. A
Harness-makers^ Tools.
1 1
knife passes through the ruled stem, and is held
firmly by a screw. It is adjusted by shifting the
block, which is also held by a screw.
A plough or plough gauge (Fig. 6) is very useful
when much strap or belt cutting has to be done. By
Im
|M
^£^^
^^^F
Round Knife.
Fig. 4. He
Fij. 3.
means of it, straps can be cut from | in. to 4 in.
wide, by sliding the knife backw^ards or forwards
along the marked gauge. Straps can be cut much
more quickly by this machine than by hand, and it
quite dispenses v/ith the use of the round knife and
compasses. A slightly different plough is illus-
trated by Figs. 7 and 8.
Fiff.
5. — Cutting- Gaui'-e.
The slitting machine (Fig. 9) is useful for thinning
straps which are to be drawn down to half or one-
third their thickness. A saddler's spokeshave (Fig.
10) may be used for the same purpose as the slitting
12
Ha K NESS Making.
machine. It is suitable for thinning light straps,
and not only takes less time to adjust, but does the
work more quickly than the slitter. The chief use
Fig. G. — Ploiij^-h, or Ploug-h Gauge.
of the spokeshave, however, is to trim and finish
traces, backhands, etc. After a trace or backhand
or other lined strap is stitched, the uneven edges
require to be rounded and smoothed ; this is done
by clamping the strap between the knees, holding
Fig. 7. — SMe Elevation of Plough Gauge.
the clamp a little straighter than when stitching,
and using the spokeshave.
Edge trimmers (Fig, 11) are for running along the
Harness-makers^ Tools.
13
edges of straps of all kinds to take off the sharp edge
and sides before dyeing. It is made in sizes 1 to 8.
Fig. 8.— End Elevation of Plough Gauge.
Sharp and strong scissors are necessary for cutting
linings, basil, and other kinds of thin leather. The
Fig. 9. — Slitting Machine.
washer cutter (Fig. 12) is used for cutting round
pieces of leather by rule ; the knife can be set at
all sizes up to 6 in.
Fig. 10. — Spokeshave
Punches are indispensable, and half a dozen dif-
ferent sizes each of round (Fig. 13) and oval (Fig.
14
Harness Making.
14) tools should be obtained. Round punches are
made in sizes from No. 1, suitable only for very
narrow straps, to No. 16, which make a hole | in. in
diameter. Oval punches are numbered, according
-tig. 11. — Edge Trimmer.
to size, from 17 to 32, and make a hole of similar
dimensions to the round punches just mentioned.
Punches of intermediate sizes, Nos. 3 to 13 or Nos.
19 to 29, will, however, answer for most repair-
ing jobs. The ovals are preferable in most cases,
as they make holes in the straps large enough for
the purpose without impairing the strength so much
as the round ones do. Buckle tongue punches, or
ili!ilililili!ilil lilililililili
^
iUii
B
Fig. 12.— Washer Cutter.
crew punches (Fig. 15) are handy ; these are made
in three or four sizes, and they run from No. 33 to
No. 43, and are used for making the holes that take
the heel of the buckle tongue when the buckle is
ffARNESS-MAKERS'' ToOLS.
15
placed in its chape. This hole may also be made
by punching two holes at a suitable distance from
each other, and cutting between them, thus G 0
The strap has to be bent and a hole cut through the
Fi;^. 13. — Round
Punch.
Fio-. 14.— Oval Fi^. 15.— Buckle Tongue
Punch.
or Crew, Punch.
bent end, the piece between the holes for the
tongue of the buckle being afterwards cut out.
The punches shown by Figs. 16 to IS may be used to
cut saddle girth chapes, brace ends, etc.
A hand punch (Fig. 19) is useful for punching holes
in small straps, or for making holes in harness
whilst it is worn by a horse. Saddlers are some-
Fig. 16. — Girth Chape Punch.
Fig-. 17.— Brace End Punch.
times called upon to do this, and without a hand
punch the work is awkw^ard, necessitating the use
of mallet, punch, and lead. Fig. 20 shows a loose
i6
Harness Making.
nipple which can be obtained in various sizes to
screw in the handle.
Scalloping irons (Figs. 21 to 24), vandyke, round,
Fig. 18. — Forepart of Brace End Punch.
straight, and half-moon are used for cutting any
fancy or ornamental designs in American cloth
or fancy leather. Rosette punches (Figs. 25 and 26)
Fig. 19.— Hand Punch.
in sets of three or four, are useful for making
rosettes in patent fancy coloured leather or for cut-
ting out round scalloped edge pieces.
Fig. 20.—
Hand Punch
Nipple.
Figs. 21 to 24,
-Scalloping Irons.
A lead piece (Fig. 27) for punching on should be
from 6 in. to 8 in. square, and about 1^ in. thick.
Lead is used because, being soft, it does not
damage the points of the punches ; but if lead is not
Harness-makers^ Tools.
17
handy, a block of wood 5 in. or 6 in, thick will do, if
set up on end so that the punch does not cut across
the grain.
Fig. 2().
Figs, ^b and 26. — Eosette Punches.
A wooden mallet (Fig. 28) for punching is also
required, and a lignum-vitse round mallet to work
the forewales and shape the stuffed bodies of
Fig. 27.— Lead Piece.
Fig. 23.— Wooden Mallet.
collars. Other useful mallets are shown by Figs. 29
and 30. Two hammers are necessary, one fairly
light — the proper saddler's hammer (Fig. 31) — and
the other a heavy one for heavy work.
^=^1
Figs. 29 and 30.— Useful Wooden Mallets.
Tools for marking and ornamenting leather may
now be mentioned. Fig. 32 shows a tool used m
stamping the lines preparatory to stitching. These
B
i8
Harness Making.
tools vary in width from three teeth, which are used
only for round points and scalloped work, to twenty-
four teeth for straight lines. The teeth on each
iron are cut to mark a certain number of stitches
Fiff. 31.
^nniiiiiiiii
Y'\r 32.
Fi<2r. 33.
Fig. 31. — Saddlers' Hammer.
Fig. 34.
Fig. 32, — Pricking-iron.
Figs. 33 and 34.— Wheel Prickers.
per inch, from six to sixteen, and these teeth are
not at right angles to the flat part of the iron, but
are cut on the slant as at b, thus making an im-
pression on the leather which acts as a guide in
forming a stitch perfect in shape as well as in
length.
Harness-maj^ers^ Tools.
19
Wheel prickers (Figs. 33 and 34) are used in sizes
from seven or eight to sixteen teeth to the inch.
They are round pieces of steel, having serrated
edges and a hole in the centre, and are provided
with a handle in which they are adjusted with a pin
and nut. A change of stitch, say from fine to coarse,
necessitates a change of wheel. The wheel is run
along the stitching line, and in the holes made by
the pricks the stitches are run.
The screw-race (Fig. 35) is a tool for grooving
gSBSl/}
Fiff. 35. — Screw-race.
,:^^i
F -:. 3G.
Figr. 36.— Single Crease.
Screw-crease.
lines in any part w^here it is desired to sink the
stitches below the surface. It is easily adjustable.
Single creases (Fig. 36) are for marking in places
w^here neither the screw-crease nor the compasses
can go, as for instance, in the centre of a large piece
of leather or wide strap. They are also used to
mark thick and heavy loops, for which purpose they
are heated before using.
Two screw-creases must be obtained, one light
and the other heavy (Fig. 37) ; one is used for light
lines and the other for heavy lines along the edge of
20
' Harness Making.
the leather, and for marking the lines for stitch-
ing. By means of the screw, the points are closed
Fig. 38.— Checker.
rig. 39.— Beveller.
or opened, thus bringing the line nearer to the edge
of the work or taking it farther away.
Checkers (Fig. 38) are small double creases with
Fig. 40.-0ompa5ses. Fig. 41.-Race Compasses.
two parallel edges, one of which marks the small
ornamental checked lines on loops ; one edge is run
Harness-makers' Tools. 21
along the last line done, which thus serves as a
guide for keeping the lines parallel. Sizes 1, 2, and
3 will be sufficient. A brass foot-rule, of course,
must be obtained.
Fi'^ 42.— Awl Blade.
Bevellers (Fig. 39) resemble the single creases,
but are much thicker and bevelled ; they are used
for the sole purpose of creasing or markmg loops on
portions that require ornamenting. In use, they
are heated and then made to form a deep, wide
groove on the loop, such as the straight cross lines
on the front, and any fancy shapes worked on the
outside of the loop.
Compasses (Fig. 40) should have a screw and regu-
lator so that they may be set at different widths.
They are used for marking the widths of straps to
be cut and for marking distances, etc.
Race compasses (Fig. 41) are for the purpose of
cutting a slight groove or line along the edges ; they
just take off a narrow strip of the grain and leave a
faint line, which is blacked with the edges. It
answers the same purpose as the line cut with the
screw-crease, either ornamenting the straps or
marking the line for the stitches.
With regard to perforating tools, a few awl blades
(Figs. 42 and 43) and hafts may be obtained.^ Stitch-
ing blades vary in sizes from 1^ in. to 3 in. long.
Fiff. 43.— Awl Blade.
'o
Hold the blade fast in the vice, and with a few sharp
blows of a light hammer drive the haft or handle on
the awl, which is then ready for use. Fig. 44 shows
a sewing awl. Strong thick awls will be required for
22
Harness Making.
coarse work, to stitch, say, a thread of seven, eight,
or even more cords of hemp in one thread, and the
thickness of the awl should diminish until the fine
awl for stitching fine silk and cotton threads is
obtained. Bent awls (Fig. 45) in one or two sizes,
Fig. 44. — Sewing Awl.
such as shoemakers use, are employed for putting
in wire in saddle flabs for fastening the panel ; they
have other uses also.
Half a dozen packets of harness needles (Figs. 46
and 47), varying in size from No. 2 to No. 6, will be
necessary ; the lowest number is the coarsest.
These needles are for wax thread and all other
stitching threads. Needles will also be required as
follows : — 2-in. or 3-in. needles for quilting saddle
panels, etc. ; pointed needles for thimble work in
stitching linings to saddle panels, etc. ; collar
needles of different sizes, half-moon shape and
straight with bent points ; these are from 3 in. to
6 in. long, the longest being for heavy cart collar
w^ork and the lightest for patent and light harness
collars.
The seat-aw^l (two shapes are shown by Figs. 48
Fig. 45. — Bent Awl.
and 49) is for easing and levelling stuffing in collars,
saddles, and other stuffed or padded articles. It is
also useful for levelling thread ; this is turned once
around the round awl, which is then drawn sharply
Ha r NESS- ma kers^ Tools.
23
backwards and forwards, the lumps thus being
taken out of the thread.
The hand- or palm-iron (Figs. 50 and 51) is a kind
of thimble used on the palm of the hand when driv-
Fig. 46.
Fig. i7.
Fio-.
48.
FijT. 49.
Figs. 46 and 47. — Harness Needles. Figs. 48 and 49. —
Seat Awls.
ing collar needles through leather. A shallow honey-
combed well is formed in the hand part, which pre-
vents the needle from slipping, however great the
pressure may be ; and at the end or point a hole is
bored lengthwise, about \ in. deep, to take the eve
2 +
Ha li NESS Making,
end of the needle and force it closer to the leather
when the broad part of the iron is not available
Holding and gripping tools include the clamp,
Fig. 50. Fig. 51.
Figs. 50 and 51. — Hand-irons or Palm-irons.
known also as the pair of clams. Fig. 52 shows the
ordinary type, while Fig. 53 is the kind used in sew-
ing shaft-tugs. Held between the knees in a slightly
slanting position, the clamp keeps the work firmly
in position while the stitching is being done ; it lies
against the left knee, and by throwing the right leg
over it the work is held fast between the gripping
points. Note that the saddler has the clamp be-
tween his legs in a slanting direction, and not as
the shoemaker, who has them straight up, almost
Fig. 52.-
-Clamp or Claras.
against his nose, when bending over the work. One
reason for this is that the work done by the saddler
with the clamp requires more foi-ce to press the awl
Ha r NESS- ma kers'' Tools.
25
through than the work done by the shoemaker ; con-
sequently the saddler must set his clamp against
some firm object (his left knee) so that it will not
yield under the pressure. Another reason is that
Fig-. 53. — Clamp for Sewing
Shaft- tugp.
Fig-. 55. — Jaws of Clamp.
F.g-. 54. — Home-made Clamp Holding- Work.
the saddler stitches with needles, while the shoe-
maker uses bristles, and must see the hole made by
the awl, as the bristles cannot force their way, as
26
Harxess Making.
the needles, to some slight extent, are able to do.
The saddler feels for the hole with his needle and
thus becomes accustomed to finding the hole with-
out looking, and to getting his needle to follow the
aw^l as the latter is drawn back ; in fact, the needle
is inserted in the unseen lower side with more
accuracy than on the top side, w^hich is in view.
A clamp can be made easily by the w^orker at
home. The parts A and b (Fig. 54) are made from
two oak cask or barrel staves. The lower portion
c may be a sound piece of white deal, 20 in. by 3 in.
-M':
v^S
Fiof. 56.— Nail-claw.
Fig-. 57. — Cutting Pliers.
by 3 in., and the only other requisites will be eight
stout 2i in. screws. The staves should be cut 2 ft.
long by at least 3 in. wide, the points of greatest
convexity being in the centre ; the more bent the
staves are the more useful the clamp will be. Clean
up the outside with a spokeshave, leaving one end
the full thickness of the staves, or about 1 in., and
thinning off gradually to about | in. towards the
upper ends, which are to form the jaws of the
clamp (Fig. 55). Round off the outer corners, and
clean up the inside surface flat, smoothing both
sides with glass-paper. The dovetail-shaped tenon
HARXESS-.nJAKERS' ToOLS.
27
in the lower part c, should be at least 6 in. in
length, and will require careful cutting, the depth
of the shoulders and the width of the upper end
depending upon the amount of curve in the staves
3s
Fig-. 58.— Iioa Collar Rod.
which are to be attached to it. It should be borne
in mind that the object is to embed the staves so
firmly that their upper ends, or the jaws of the tool,
press tightly together. With this object the tenon
should be cut, so that energetic screwing will be
required to bring the staves home into their final
position. The screws should be countersunk flush
with the surface of the staves.
A small wrench and a medium-sized vice will
often be found useful. A nail-claw (Fig. 56) is re-
quired for pulling out the nails used to keep the
work together. Pincers, nippers, and cutting
pliers (Fig. 57) will be found useful as occasion
demands.
An iron collar rod (Fig. 58) for stuffing the fore-
wale must be obtained, as w^ell as a hardwood stick,
about 2 ft. 6 in. long, and having a V-shaped point,
for filling the body of collars with straw ; the stick
Fij?. 59.— Steel Ssat-iron.
is flat towards the V-shaped end, and round at the
other end, the corners being rounded off smooth.
A steel seat-iron (Fig. 59) is used in putting flock
into cart-saddle panels, but chiefly for stuffing the
peak of riding saddles, as the tool bends nicely with
2 8 Harness Making.
the shape of the saddle without tearing the cover or
stretching it immoderately.
Loop-sticks (Fig. 60) are made of hardwood in
various sizes to suit the wddth and thickness of the
straps. A set made of hard boxwood or iron, vary-
ing in width from \ in. to 2 in., and in thickness from
\ in. to \ in., should be obtained. Less room is
wanted in shaping a loop for a single strap than
when a strap of two or three thicknesses is required
to go through a loop. (A loop is the piece of leather
placed crosswise on straps having buckles, and it
keeps the point of the strap in its proper position.)
A loop stick must be obtained that is thick enough
C
Fig, CO.— Loop-stick.
Fig, 61.— Rubber.
and wide enough for a trace if in. w4de and propor-
tionately thick ; there must also be one sufficiently
thin and narrow for a ^-in. strap ; loop sticks for
intermediate sizes are also necessary, and it is as
well to get two each of some of the sizes. For in-
stance, those things that are done in pairs, such as
bridle-cheeks, shaft-tugs, etc., will require the use
of two loop sticks of the same size. Good loop sticks
are essential to turning out good work.
A rubber (Fig. 61) made of a piece of hard, close-
grained wood or of thick glass about 6 in. square
and V-shaped on one edge is used to smooth down
two edges w^hipped together, or for flattening and
levelling any two thin substances, such as leather
and linen pasted or stitched together ; it is also used
to rub stitching on the underside of traces or any
HARNESS-MAKER^i^ ToOLS.
29
double straps, and for rubbing or stretching damped
leather.
The straining fork (Fig. 62) is sometimes em-
ployed for stretching wet webbing or leather, one
end of which is nailed down and the other end
strained with the fork and secured until dry.
Fig.
62. —Straining Fork.
A coarse file or rasp may be necessary to file down
wooden and cane driving w^hip-stocks, etc., when
putting on thongs and in splicing w^hip-sticks to
level the splice so that both of the parts may lie flat
against each other. A small round file and a small
square one, as well as two or three coarser ones, are
sure to come in handy. Amongst their uses will be
the filing down of the brass or ironwork of saddles,
and the making of holes in saddle trees, etc.
30
CHAPTER II.
HARNESS-MAKERS'' MATERIALS.
It is now proposed to give some particulars of the
materials used in saddle and harness making.
The threads used in the trade are manj^ but the
principal is waxed thread, made by the saddler him-
self, and used to stitch harness and straps together.
By waxed thread is generally meant thread dressed
with black or cobbler's wax, but the saddler also
uses thread dressed with beeswax and sometimes
with white wax. The linen thread used is in various
colours, yellow, red, black, white, etc., and is on
reels or in hanks. Silk threads of the same colours
are used for best work, such as stitching best brown
saddlery, riding bridles, martingales, etc. The
white and black linen thread is used for whipping-
in lining in panels of both gig and riding saddles,
and for stitching saving pads in any thin material
for light work, and also in stitching along with the
red and yellow thread in making riding bridles, and
all kinds of brown light work. The hemp for wax
threads, of various strengths, is to be had in black,
yellow, green, and white. The white hemp is con-
sidered the best and toughest, though the coloured
perhaps is a little cheaper. Fine No. 15 and coarse
No. 3 will probably meet all requirements.
Beeswax, as already hinted, is used to make
threads for work that is light as regards both colour
and substance. Single linen threads of all colours
are, before using, rubbed with beeswax, which does
not deaden the colour. White wax is sometimes
made for brown harness by melting together white-
lead and white wax ; instead of the latter, the wax
from best white wax candles may be used. If the
wax when cold is too soft, add more white wax ; if
too hard, add a little more white-lead.
IIar.\'ess-makers' Materials. -xi
o
Black cobbler's wax is made by melting together
\ lb. each of resin and pitch. When thoroughly
mixed, remove the pan from the fire, and add one
pennyworth of boiled linseed oil, or less, according
to the weather. Thoroughly mix this with the other
ingredients and then pour a little into cold water to
test it. Let it remain for a minute and then remove
it from the water, taking care to well w^et the hands
in doing so, or in the subsequent working it will
stick to them. If it cracks when working it in the
hands, it is too hard ; if it pulls out properly and
sticks well together, it is all right. Put it back into
the water, and pour in the rest of the stuff after it.
It is important that the piece tested be not put back
into the pan containing the rest of the w^ax, as the
w^ater absorbed ^\\\\ evaporate and make the hot
w^ax frothy and spongy. Gather the w^ax together
in the water without loss of time, remove it with
wet hands, and pull it fast hand over hand as
quickly as possible till it attains a light golden
colour. Pull off a small piece with the hands, or cut
it off w^ith wet scissors, and throw it into the water.
If it floats on the surface it has been pulled enough ;
if it sinks, the wax requires more working. If not
pulled enough, the wax is brittle, becoming tougher
and better the more it is pulled. In making the
wax it must be remembered that only half as much
oil is required in summer as in winter. The colder
the atmosphere the more oil will be required.
The quantities of ingredients mentioned w411 make
about thirty handy lumps of wax, and as a rule a
pennyw^orth of oil is enough in the coldest weather.
If, after working it, the wax is too hard, melt it again
and add more oil ; if too soft, add more pitch and
resin. Hard w^ax may be used in a way that avoids
re-melting. The thread, previous to being dressed
with the wax, is rubbed with tallow, over which the
wax will run smooth. Cut the wax into lumps the
size of a large pigeon's egg and keep it in water.
32 Harxess Making.'
Directions will now be .given for making wax
threads. So that the hemp may be kept tidy and
not mixed up with the tools on the bench, place the
ball of hemp in a wooden or tin box having a small
hole in the centre of its lid, through which the hemp
can pass. Take hold of the end of the hemp with
the left hand, twist it once around the fingers, and
draw it through the right hand. When a sufficient
quantity has been drawn out, break the thread by
rubbing it on the knee to take out the twist, at
the same time giving it a sharp pull ; the strands
thus loosen and break in a ragged end. Throw the
hemp over a nail or hook in the bench, pull it until
the sides are each about 2 ft. 9 in. long, keep the
hemp tight with the end in the left hand, and with
the right hand spin or rub it on the knee as before
to untwist the strands ; then pull it sharply to break
it. The more ragged the broken end is the better
will be the point on the finished thread. There is
now one strand 2 ft. 9 in. long and pointed ; with
the right hand put the points together in the left
hand, and draw the hemp again over the hook, spin-
ning and cutting it as before, and repeating the
operation till the required number of strands is
obtained. The number varies with the required
strength, from three to sixteen.
In putting the ends of the cut hemp together, do
not leave them exactly the same length ; by leaving
some shorter than others a nice pointed thread is
obtained at the finish, fine enough to go into the eye
of a needle. When the required number of strands
is obtained, take a ball of wax in the right hand,
and hold both ends of the thread separately in the
left ; draw the wax over the points two or three
times to keep the ends together, taking care to keep
the ends on the left of the hook twisted round the
left hand, and holding them tight with the third
and fourth fingers, leaving the thumb and forefinger
loose to manipulate the other end in the process of
Harness-makers' Materials. 33
twisting ; the wax on the ends or points is a great
help at this stage. Having an end between the
thumb and finger of the left hand, set it on the knee,
and spin or twist it as when cutting the hemp. The
knee should be raised about 12 in. from the floor by
placing the foot on a support. Continue spinning
with the palm of the right hand until the thread is
twisted enough. If twisted too much, it will work
into knots when used in stitching. Then put the
twisted side round the left hand, kept firm by the
third and fourth fingers as before ; and take the
other side between the thumb and forefinger of the
left hand,, and spin it to the proper twist with the
palm of the right hand as the other side w^as done.
If the thread is required very smooth, twist both of
the sides of the thread once round the seat-awl and
draw the latter sharply backwards and forwards
along the thread, all unevenness being thus
smoothed aw^ay. For coarse work and repairs this
is not necessary, but for best and new work the
thread should always be smoothed.
To wax the thread, hold tne two ends of the
thread firmly in the left hand, and with the ball of
wax held in the palm of the right hand, rub all along
the thread, pulling the thread from around the hook
into the open to enable that portion to be waxed
also. Pull back the thread into its former position,
and, with a piece of soft leather or the bare hand,
rub the thread sharply from end to end to smooth
the wax and make it even all along. The thread is
then ready for use.
Yellow or white hemp thread is made w4th either
beeswax or w^hite w^ax in exactly the same manner,
but the point of the thread is not dressed with white
wax, being left unwaxed until the rest of the thread
is finished. The end has to be pointed with black
wax, which will not stick over beeswax or white
wax. Black wax is the only kind that will keep the
thread fast to the needles.
c
34 Harness Making.
Nails are extensively used both in putting
materials together for working and as ornaments.
The nails used in putting work together are gener-
ally cut tacks, ranging in length from | in. to 1 in.
Neat wire nails can now be had, however, much
cheaper than the tacks, and are to be preferred, as
they are of uniform size and leave a much smaller
hole when withdrawn. Clumsy nails spoil good
work, as the holes made by them are larger than the
awl used in stitching. Very fine nails do not spoil
the work, and can be obtained in sizes suitable for
heavier and clumsier work ; and they may be used
over and over again if care is taken in pulling them
out with the nail-claw. Cut tacks are used in put-
ting gig saddles together, in nailing the leather to
the tree, in adjusting panels in the gullet and be-
hind, between the two prongs of the crupper staples, _
for nailing seats in riding saddles, etc. Cut tacks
can be obtained as small as | in. in length.
Saddlers' tacks of different sizes from \ in. to | in.
long are used in putting in cart-saddle and riding-
saddle panels and flaps, and for many other pur-
poses. Clout nails are used now and then in putting
houses on cart saddles, and for nailing on straps and
girths, etc. Clout nails and saddlers' tacks are
made of wrought iron. Round-headed and japanned
nails may be used for nailing cart-saddle housings,
and have a neater appearance than common iron
clouts. Tough nails are used in making all kinds of
saddles ; they sometimes have heads covered with
black patent leather, and sometimes japanned heads
only. Others have heads of silver, nickel, or brass.
They are used partly as ornaments and partly to
hold the work together, and are in two sizes, cab
and gig. There are usually four in a gig or cab
saddle, one in each corner of the skirt in front and
one on each side behind, holding down the binding
that comes over the cantle of the saddle. The front
ones are driven through, bent, and beaten close to
Harness-Makers^ Materials. 35
the tree backwards, whilst the hind ones are cut to
taper for about half their lengths to a point ; they
are driven into the tree.
In a riding saddle there is one nail in the front,
one in each of the sides, one in the corner of the
skirts driven through and bent, and one on each
side just at the thin end of the skirt, driven inwards
so as to catch the tree and be flattened close to it.
There is also one in each flap under the skirt in a
line with the stirrup fastener, driven through the
tree on the outside of the plate running along the
points from, the gullet ; these are bent and flattened
underneath. Sometimes brass nails are used as
ornaments, but brass beading has done away with
their use to a great extent. Formerly country cart
saddles were ornamented by nailing the housing to
the tree with brass nails ; the covers of van saddles,
as well as the opening over the boards, w^ere also
fastened down with these nails.
Such pieces as loop leather, the edges of black
straps, etc., often have to be dyed. The dye or
stain is made by boiling together for half an hour
1 lb. logwood chips, 4 oz. crushed nutgalls, \ ib.
copperas, a little gum arabic, and 5 qt. of w^ater.
Keep a little in an old bottle hung in a handy posi-
tion near the bench. The dye is applied by a stick
having a piece of felt attached to its end. The ink
can be thinned by the addition of water. In dyeing
brown leather, it must first be coated with soda
solution to kill the grease. The solution is made by
dissolving a piece of washing soda the size of a
pigeon's egg in a quart of hot water. The black dye
may then be applied. If it does not strike well,
rub over it a coarse brush and again coat with dye.
Rub it well and dry with a rag, afterwards w^ell rub-
bing in a little tallow with- either a rag or the bare
hand. The tallow gives a finish and counteracts
any injury the dye might do the hand, there being
in the copperas a tendency to burn.
3 6 Harness Making.
Flocks, both white and coloured, are extensively
used in the trade, and can be bought at from 20s.
to 50s. per hundredweight ; the material can also
be had in small quantities— even as low as a pound.
Best white flock should be free from cotton, and
should be tested by putting a small quantity in a
candle flame ; if cotton is present, it burns fiercely
and with a big flame, but fine wool burns slowly and
smoulders. The best flock is used for stuffing rid-
ing-saddle panels, etc., and the best drummed flock
is used for collars, being put near the horse's
breast under the lining to make the collars easy for
the shoulder.
The drummed flocks are in large sheets, and these
are cut to the size and shape required, and, being
of even thickness, will not be lumpy, an important
consideration in making a collar. Coarser flock of
a w^iite, brown, or any dark colour will do for
stuffing and restuffing gig-saddle panels. Curled
horsehair is sometimes used for stuffing panels, and
is found very cool for an animal with a tender back
or shoulder ; goat hair is very suitable for stuffing.
Neither this nor horsehair is so liable to be clogged
by sw^eating as sheep's wool, though the latter,
when dry, containing but very little oil and being
well carded, is used extensively in country places.
All these materials before use should be put
through the flock machine once or twice to loosen
the fibre, and care should be taken when stuffing
with a rod that the flock or wool is not put in
lumpy or uneven. After stuffing, the work should
be levelled with the seat-awl until it is as smooth as
a board. The drummed flock, of course, is already
level and even ; it is not stuffed in, but laid on the
inside of the collar lining before stuffing the collar
with straw.
Thick felt is a good substitute for pads to ease
collars and saddles, and can be bought in various
thicknesses by the pound. Large cuttings and
Harness-makers' Materials. 37
waste pieces can also be bought very cheaply, and
two thicknesses can be put together if necessary, a
strap and a buckle being on one side with a strap on
the other to fasten to a saddle or collar. Felt is
useful to put under cruppers and to line breechings
when chafing, or under any strappings that chafe
the horse's skin. They can be fastened to the above
by stitching them with a spot stitch, thus ,
about I in. apart, and slanting the awl underneath
to make the stitch small there as well as on the top ;
or nails may be used when the felt is sufficiently
thick. False collars, pads to be used like saddle
cloths under gig or cab saddles and under cart-
saddle panels, riding-saddle cloths, and many other
articles are made of felt.
The harness maker and saddler uses many differ-
ent kinds of leather, and, unless the worker pos-
sesses some knowledge of the particular purpose of
each variety, much waste is likely to result. Stuff
too light or too heavy, too thick or too thin, spoils
a job, and of course entails loss.
In Fig. 63, which is a diagram showing a cut hide,
A A show the sides of a harness hide with belly on ;
c c, backs of harness hide with belly off ; B b b B,
bellies of hide ; d d, middlings ; e, shoulder ; and F,
uncut middling.
Harness leather can be bought in hides (a a) cut
only along the back, having the belly part attached,
at the rate of from Is. 2d. to Is. lid. per lb. The
best part can be used for harness and cart gear ; the
belly will come in well for repairs, linings, and fill-
ings. Harness backs (c c) are half hides from which
the belly (b b) has been cut off ; these have all pure
firm leather suitable for making all kinds of har-
ness. The price is from Is. 9d. to 2s. 5d. per pound.
Trace backs (c c) resemble the above, but are
picked and more carefully dressed, and are made of
the finest and best grown hides. They cost from
Is. lOd. to 2s. 7d. per pound.
38 Harness Making.
Rein hides have* the bellies attached but are
dressed and of picked quality and thickness and
uniform strength ; they are suitable for making into
driving reins. For the best part can also be made
any good light single straps, where strength and
durability are required. The best part of the belly
can be cut up into small straps of any kind and into
linings. These hides cost from 56s. to 72s. each.
Rein backs resemble the above, but have the belly
cut off ; the price is from 40s. to 70s. each.
Black strap butts (d d) are the best part of the
hide from which the belly and shoulder have been
cut. They are from 4 ft. 6 in. to 4 ft. 9 in. long, and
are suitable for any kind of good single strap. The
price is from 56s. to 72s. a pair.
Black spur shoulders (e) are light shoulders
dressed and flattened ; from them are made spur
and similar straps, garters, wrist straps, etc. The
price is from 8s. 6d. to 10s. each. Japanned horse
hides for patent harness collars cost from 40s. to
46s. each. Cow hides, japanned for the same pur-
pose, cost from 38s. to 44s. each. Japanned cow-
backs for collars, etc., cost from 30s. to 39s. per pair.
Japanned flap hides for making gig, cab, or
brougham harness saddle flaps are priced at from
2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. per pound. The middlings cost
from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per pound.
Winker hides, japanned for making bridle
winkers, cost 54s. to 56s. each, and the middlings
(f) for the same purpose cost from 32s. to 36s. per
pair. Japanned welting seals for making welts for
gig saddles, etc., are priced at from 7s. 6d. to 8s. 6d.
each. Japanned and enamelled hides for making
military belts, etc., cost from 54s. to 60s. each, and
middlings for the same purpose from 40s. to 42s.
per pair.
There is great variety in brown or stained leather.
Bridle hides for all sorts of riding bridles cost from
50s. to 56s. each. Backs (c c) from the above cost
Ha rness-makers' Ma teria ls.
39
45s. to 50s. each, whilst the butts cost 32s. to 40s. ;
these are in varying qualities and prices.
Brown shoulders (e) dressed for coat straps,
garters, braces, or small straps in general can be
bought at from 6s. 6d. to 10s. each, and driving-rein
brown hides at from 56s. to 72s. each. The backs
cost from 56s. to 66s. a pair, and the butts for hand-
parts of reins 38s. to 42s. a pair.
Fig-. 63,— Catting up Hide.
Double-rein hides — that is, brown leather speci-
ally selected and dressed for making reins of double
thickness stitched together, cost from 44s. to 50s.
each. The backs cost from 40s. to 48s. per pair.
Head-collar rein backs for making head-collars,
stallion bridles, etc., can be bought at from 2s. 6d.
to 2s. lid. per pound.
40 Harxess Makixg.
Stirrup hides for making stirrup straps cost from
2s. 6d. to 2s. 9d. per pound ; there are also inferior
qualities. Butts for stirrup straps cost from 3s. 6d.
to 4s. per pound. Brown harness hides cost from
Is. 6d. to Is. lid. per pound. The backs cost from
Is. 8d. to 2s. 2d. per pound. Skirt hides for making
ladies' and gents' saddle skirts and flaps are priced
at from Is. lOd. to 2s. 2d. per pound. Skirt backs
are from 2s. to 2s. 4d. per pound, and shoulders,
Is. 5d. to Is. lOd. per pound.
Hog-skins suitable for all purposes, but chiefly
used for saddles, can be bought at from £9 to £12
per dozen ; they can be bought singly, and there are
also inferior qualities.
Sheep-skins in imitation of hog-skins can be
bought at from 30s. to 60s. per dozen, or copper
plates for printing basils and a printing press for
the purpose can be bought instead. Basils for gig-
saddle panel pads and repairing collars, and cart-
saddle cheek pads, etc., can be bought at from 10s.
to 30s. per dozen. The common ones are good
enough for repairs and cheap vrork.
Specially dressed hides for making braces or any
light straps can be bought at from 36s. to 40s. each ;
the shoulders (e) or bellies (b) dressed for the same
purpose can be had apart from the hide. Purse and
pocket-book hides are also specially dressed, and
cost from 30s. to 40s. each. Calf-skins dressed for
the same purpose cost from 9s. to 10s. 6d. each. The
brace and pocket-book and purse leather can be
obtained stained in various colours, red, brown,
yellow, orange, etc. The brown harness leather
also can be had natural or tallow colour or stained
fawn, nut brown, yellow, or orange. Brown gear
hides for cart work are from Is. 3d. to 2s. per
pound, the backs from Is. 7d. to 2s. 3d. per pound,
and bellies from lOd. to Is. 4d. per pound.
Mill bands for making driving belts cost from
Is. 6d. to 2s. 2d. per pound. Engine butts for mak-
Harness-makers' Materials, 41
ing strong engine belts, either single or double, cost
from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per pound.
Fancy coloured leather for bridle fronts and
rosettes cost from 40s. to 42s. each middling.
Striped patent frontings leather costs from Is. 6d.
to 2s. 9d. per square foot. White buff hides for
hunting-crop keepers, razor strops, belts, etc., cost
about 5s. per pound. White bleached buff middling
is about 5s. per pound.
A country saddler is often called upon to work in
coach-builders' leather ; leathers for this purpose
are not included in the a'bove list, but, as a rule,
they can be obtained at the same place as harness
leather.
Enamelled cow, ox, and bull hides for carriage
tops, etc., are sold whole, and not slit along
the middle, at from 40s. to 70s. each. Coach hides
and backs for dashes and wings cost from 26s. to
40s. each. Seal-skins for the same purpose cost
from 7s. 6d. to 12s. each. Hides for window straps,
enamelled and prepared, cost from 56s. to 60s. each.
All coloured carriage cushion hides for making car-
riage cushions cost from 40s. to 60s. each. Dyed
and enamelled leather for cushions is sold by the
square foot.
It is scarcely necessary to state that all the above
prices fluctuate with the market. A great quantity
of harness leather, nowadays, is prepared by the
quick tanning process, but it is inferior stuff. The
best leather is that which has been through a pure
oak tan. It is very hard, however, to tell when the
inferior process has been used, but as a rule the
colour, smell, and even taste of the leather decide
the question ; soft, mellow leather that has not a
hard feeling to the touch is as a rule good leather,
especially if it has a close grain and a light yellow
colour when cut. The inferior quality feels and
looks dry and hard : it has a dull grey colour and an
uneven g-rain facing. A good test is to bend it,
42 Harness Making.
poor and badly dressed leather cracking in the bend,
and the grain giving way ; these defects show that
either chemicals or excessive heats have been used
in the finishing and tanning. Well tanned and
dressed leather stands the bending test well.
A few rules on cutting up hides may now be given.
When cutting a strap from a hide, do not cut down
lower than the width of the strap required, so as
not to interfere with the next cut into the hide. All
possible care should be taken to prevent waste, and
pieces of particular shape should be cut from a pat-
tern. It is sheer waste to cut off a piece of stuff
larger than is required and then to trim it down.
In cutting up a hide, lay it on the bench with the
back part against the worker; use a straightedge
at least 8 ft. long, and mark with a blunt-pointed
awl or the seat-awl, using the straightedge as a
guide. Take care not to cut the grain of the leather
with the point of the awl, as in the case of the
straightedge being shifted an indelible mark may be
left.
If the strap is to be cut with the round knife, set
the compass to the right width, and put one point in
position to run along the edge of the leather, and
the other on the leather so that it marks the width
to be cut ; pull the compass towards the worker,
pressing it so that it leaves a plain line. With
the round knife begin cutting at the right-hand end,
keeping the leather steady in its place on the
cutting-board with the left hand. A cutting-
board ought always to be employed, as nails
on the top of the bench would interfere with the
work. Push the knife along the marked line stead-
ily, taking care that the knife does not slip ; if it
does, it may make a bad slit and spoil the work.
Straps are always cut along the hide and not across
it, the hide being much stronger lengthways.
The first cutting from the hide is suitable for reins,
and then in order come traces, back-bands, bridg-
Harxess-makers' Materials. 43
ing-straps, hip-straps, and hip-strap tugs ; then
crupper billet, shaft tugs, name tugs, bellyband,
bridle head-strap, cheeks, etc. ; and from the belly
part or third quality in side of hide may be cut
linings and layers for folds. In making cart harness,
cut bridge-band, crupper, and bridge-band carrier
or hip-straps and bearers, and then cart-saddle
bellybands and bridle ; the best part of the belly,
with the top well lined, will do for side pieces of
collar, unless this can be cut from a specially
dressed piece.
Specially curried leather must be obtained for
cart-saddle housings and winkers, as the harness
leather is not firm enough and contains too much
oil. The special leather also must be got for the
saddle flaps, the pieces lying against the ribs of the
horse under the ridgworth.
A leather that is cheapest in first cost is not
always the cheapest to use. That leather is the
best from which the greatest weight of firm straps
can be made, and which will continue firm for the
greatest length down towards the belly part.
The compass and round knife only were men-
tioned in the description of cutting straps, but the
plough is very useful for cutting straps varying from
\ in. to 5| in. in width. The plough does away with
the use of both compass and round knife, and cuts
much more evenly and straight than it is possible
to do by hand. Its use effects a great saving of
time, the knife merely requiring to be adjusted on
the gauge and made fast by the thumb-screw.
Hold the leather firm and flat on the board with the
left hand, and press it forward to the plough, keep-
ing the guard close and tight to the edge all along.
The uses of the head knife in cutting will be fully
explained later.
Brown harness work, as small straps, traces, back-
band, and breechings, may be finished with a thin
solution of gum and water, and should be well
44 Harxess Makixg.
rubbed with a smooth bone until polished. Machines
for trimming the edges are made, but their work is
incomplete, because all lengthy straps have parts
in which the fibres are less close than at others. A
good method is to knock the edges all along, con-
solidate them as much as possible, and then trim
them round and level with the spokeshave ; after-
wards run a glass scraper over them and sandpaper.
Finally, a good rubbing with brown paper and bone,
after gumming, v>'ill give a fine polished edge to all
brown work.
Black straps and harness are prepared in the same
way for polishing ; black dye them, then rub dry
with a rag, and polish with brow^n paper and bone.
Sometimes, after blacking and rubbing, a coat of
liquid blacking is applied, and rubbed until dry.
Again, some harness-makers employ black-ball and
a burnisher to finish after blacking, rubbing down
well ; this is recommended for the best harness. It
should be understood that whenever the w^ord finish-
ing is used here in connection with best harness this
process is referred to for black and brown harness
and single straps.
Common harness and cart gear, especially in
country places, are usually finished by levelling the
edges, scraping with glass, blacking, rubbing with a
rag, and finally, after passing a ball of hard tallow-
along the edges, rubbing with a bone or hard knife
handle.
Webs are used for a variety of purposes by sad-
dlers. Girth web for making saddle girths is sold
in 15-yd. pieces. It can be had in cotton, union, or
worsted. Race girth is a superior material for
racing saddles ; it is about 5 in. wide. Web for
roller girth is from 4 in. to 6 in. wide and in 12^-yd.
pieces ; it is of cotton, union, or worsted. In the
same material is made trace web in 18|-yd. pieces,
\\ in. to 2^ in. wide. Game-bag web is sometimes
req ired, and is bought by the yard in different
HaR A' ESS-MAKERS^ MATERIALS. 45
colours. Men's body-belt web is to be had in 18-yd.
pieces from 4 in. to 8 in. wide, and in seven or eight
colours. Straining-web for saddle seats can be
bought by the yard or in the piece. A country
saddler finds diaper-web very useful ; this is bought
in 15-yd. pieces.
Other requisites, such as bits, spurs, stirrups, and
harness furniture are described in Chapter X.
A few reliable recipes for some of the most neces-
sary articles employed in harness making will now^
be given.
Iron Liquor for Dyeing. — (a) Green copperas, 2 lb. ;
vinegar, 2 qt. ; pulverised nutgall, ^ lb. ; and water,
4 qt. Two weeks after mixing add another 2 qt. of
water, {h) Bichromate of potash, ^ lb. ; logwood ex-
tract, 1 lb. ; copperas, 1 oz. ; and water, 1 gal.
Saddlers' Black Wax. — (a) Pitch, 2 lb. ; resin, 2^ lb. ;
seal oil, one pennyworth. In winter add 2 lb. of
resin instead of 2^ lb., and never more than f of the
oil until the stiffness of the wax has been tested.
(b) Pitch, 1 lb. ; resin, 1 lb. ; and linseed oil, one
pennyworth.
The exact amount of oil to be used in both of the
above recipes depends on the season and the
weather. A little lampblack may be well mixed in
w^hen the wax is required very black. x\lways melt
the pitch and resin together, and then add the oil.
Afterwards pour the mixture into cold water, and
knead and pull it until it floats. Try a small piece
first to ascertain whether there is sufficient oil, and
likewise after pulling to see whether it floats.
Brown Wax. — Beeswax, 1 lb. ; pale resin, 3 oz. ;
and white-lead, 3 oz. The wax can be softened or
hardened by adding more or less beeswax. Melt the
mixture, stirring it, and then pour it into water and
pull until it floats.
Flour Taste.- — Water, 1 qt., and alum 3 oz. Heat
until the alum has melted, and when cold add flour
to the consistency of cream ; then let the mixture
46 Harxess Making,
boil, stirring it at the same time. By adding a little
powdered resin and a clove or two before boiling,
the paste will keep for a year and can be softened
with water when dry.
Brown Stain. — Boil equal parts of pine and alder
bark in six times their bulk of water until the colour
is extracted, and when cold add a little alcohol.
Yellow Stain. — Boil some fustic berries in alum
water and darken the shade by adding powdered
brazil, w^hich must be boiled with the berries.
Brown, Bussct, and Yellow Stain. — Boil a given
amount of saffron in water until the colour is ex-
tracted, cut a quantity of annatto, putting it into
urine, and mix the urine and extract, the proportion
of each determining the shade ; the greater the
amount of annatto the darker the colour.
Stain for Biding Saddles, etc. — Saffron, three penny-
worth ; annatto, one pennyworth ; soft soap, one
pennyworth ; and boiling water, 1 qt. Mix and let
the whole stand until ready.
Beviver for Batent Leather. — Mix warm linseed oil
1 pt., and cream 1 pt. Apply with a sponge and
polish with a soft flannel or rag.
Harness Composition. — (a) Glue, 4 oz. ; gum arable,
3 oz. ; water, | pt. Dissolve all by heat and add 6 oz.
of treacle and 5 oz. of very finely powdered ivory
black, and slowly evaporate with constant tritura-
tion until the composition is of the proper consist-
ency when cold. When nearly cold, bottle and cork ;
if necessary the bottle can be warmed before use.
(h) Mutton suet 2 oz., and pure beeswax 6 oz. Melt
this mixture and then add finely powdered sugar
candy, 6 oz. ; soft soap, 2 oz. ; lampblack, 2oz. ; and
finely powdered indigo, ^ oz. When perfectly incor-
porated add i pt. of oil of turpentine. Keep the
composition in pots or tins, (c) Beeswax, 1 lb. ;
soft soap, 6 oz. ; ivory black, ^ lb. ; Prussian blue
(ground in), 1 oz. ; linseed oil, 2 oz. ; and oil of tur-
pentine, ^ pt. Mix well together and pot. Put a
Harxess-makers Materials. 47
thin layer of one of the above on the leather and
polish gently with a brush or rubber.
Harness Jet. — Molasses, 8 parts ; lampblack, 1
part ; sweet oil, 1 part ; gum arabic, 1 part ; isin-
glass, 1 part ; and water, 32 parts. Mix well to-
gether and add 1 pt. of turpentine. Apply the mix-
ture with a sponge. If it is hard, place the bottle
in hot water to soften the mixture. One ounce of
spirit of wine can also be added when cool.
Waterproof Paste for Carriage Harness. — (a) Dis-
solve three sticks of black sealing wax in ^ pt. of
alcohol, or dissolve lac in alcohol and colour with
sufficient lampblack, (h) Melt 2 oz. of black resin in
a glazed vessel over the fire, and then add 3 oz. of
bees-wax, and as soon as all is melted remove from
the fire and add ^ oz. of fine lampblack and ^ oz. of
Prussian blue in powder. Stir all well and add
enough turpentine to form a thin paste. Cool and
apply with a sponge ; polish with a soft brush.
Oil for Farm and Team Harness. — Melt 3 lb. of pure
tallow without letting it boil, and gently add 1 lb. of
pure neatsfoot oil. Stir continually until cold, so
that it will be perfectly mixed, otherwise the tallow
will harden in lumps. To colour, add a little bone
black or lampblack.
Brass Polishing Paste. — (a) Dissolve 3 parts of oxalic
acid in 40 of water, with 100 of pumicestone pow-
dered, 2 of oil of turpentine, 12 of soft soap, and 12
of any fat oil. (h) Beat equal weights of soft soap
and rottenstone into a paste.
Plate Powder. — Take as much sulphate of iron as
will fill a clay pipe, keep it on the fire for a quarter
of an hour, and mix w^ith powdered chalk.
Leather Preserver. — To preserve harness from the
effect of ammonia in stables add a little glycerine
to the oil employed.
Leather Cement. — (a) Dissolve guttapercha in bi-
sulphate of carbon until of the consistency of
treacle. Shave well the parts to be cemented and
48 Harness Making.
then spread a little cement evenly over them. Warm
them for about half a minute, apply one against
the other quickly, and press hard. Keep the bottle
well corked and in a cool place. (5) Melt gutta-
percha, 16 parts ; pure rubber, 4 parts ; yellow pitch,
2 parts ; shellac, 1 part ; and linseed oil, 2 parts, and
apply as above, {c) Guttapercha, 1 lb. ; indiarubber,
4 oz. ; pitch, 1 oz. ; shellac, 1 oz. ; and linseed oil,
2 oz. Melt all together. The composition will
harden when kept, and must be melted for use.
Bronzing for Leaiher. — A small amount of so-called
insoluble aniline violet is dissolved in a little water
and the solution brushed over the article ; it will dry
quickly. If the result is not satisfactory, repeat the
process.
To Gild Calf- or Sheepskin. — Wet the leather with
some egg albumen, and, when dry, rub it w^ith the
hands damped with a little olive oil. Then apply the
gold leaf, and pass a hot iron over it.
49
CHAPTER III.
STRAP MAKING AND STITCHING.
Insteuctions have been given on making threads
and cutting leather, and now a simple exercise in
stitching may be given in the putting together of
small straps.
In making a box strap, cut with the round knife
or plough from the back of the hide a good piece
of leather, which should be 6 ft. long, and 1^ in.
wide. Turn down about 2 in. of one end, cut a hole
within about ^ in. of the bend, and slit the part out
with two cuts. Neatly shave down the point of the
under piece with the round knife, and slant the
other end a bit at each side to make a neat point to
enter the buckle easily. Run the No. 1 edge tool
along the sharp edges of the two sides and of the
top and bottom ; this takes a small strip off, rounds
the edges, and produces a better finish. If brown
leather is used, wipe the edges with a damp sponge ;
instead of pure water, a very thin solution of gum
may be used. Then rub the edges with a rag or
with a piece of brown paper until they are smooth
and polished.
Adjust the screw-crease so that it marks a line
about i in. inside the edges, warm the crease in
a gas or candle flame, and rub it sharply all along
the edge, guiding the crease mark on the strap by
keeping the other side of the crease close up to the
strap. Rub backwards and forwards until there is a
deep polished mark on the strap, then mark across
the point in the same way. This operation is known
as creasing.
Two crease marks instead of one may be made
after turning the thumb-screw to widen the points
of the tool. Then cut a piece to form a loop about
D
50 Harness Making.
I in. wide and long enough to go round any part of
the strap and make the ends meet. Edge this in
the same way as the strap, polish with dye or water
according to colour, and then crease.
For a running loop — one that runs loosely along
the strap — the leather about \ in. longer than twice
the width of the strap so as to overlap ; shave
one end on the top or grain side, and the other on
the bottom or flesh side, so that when jointed the
pieces will make an even thickness. Allow suf-
ficient length for the two thicknesses of strap to go
through, and mark where it is to overlap. Put one
side of the doubled part in the clamp and stitch the
side opposite, then reverse it and stitch the other ;
all running loops are made in this way except for
very common straps, when the strips are simply
brought end to end and a stitch or two is made from
side of the doubled part in the clamp and stitch the
buckle, put the tongue point of the latter through
the hole made for it in the strap, and having marked
the stitches eight or ten to the inch with the wheel-
pricker on the short underpart, put the loop in be-
tween the two leathers deep enough for the stitches
to hold firmly. Begin stitching by the buckle, put-
ting a cross stitch downwards close to it. Stitch the
straight row along the line of marks close to the
buckle end, and have a stitch over ; do not pull the
thread up at the last stitch, but have both the ends
underneath. Put two or three stitches in the centre
at the point ; here also the last stitch is down-
wards. Then begin stitching the other side.
With the awl put the first hole close to the
point and pull the thread through ; make the
next hole and put the other thread up and
the top one down, and so on until the loop
is reached. See that the loop is of the right
length ; if too long, cut a bit off. Put the point in
between the two leathers, deep enough to catch the
stitches, and put one or two stitches in the side next
Sti^ap Makjng and Stitching, 51
to the thread, slanting the awl a little outwards at
the point. Put the upper needle through the loop
so that the stitching will not be over it, and have
a stitch or tw^o in the side of the loop next to the
worker ; finish it up to the buckle. Put a cross stitch
at the finish, the same as on the other side, and cut
the thread. Put a loop stick of the same width and
thickness as the strap through both loops, hammer
them lightly to shape, and run the warm single
crease along the edges. With a punch of the right
size cut the required number of buckle holes, begin-
ning about 5 in. from the point ; make the distance
between the holes a little more than the width of the
strap. This is always the rule in punching single
straps, such as garters, cart hame straps, dog
muzzle straps, luggage straps, etc.
With regard to threading the needles, a properly
made thread will have a nice point, which must be
well waxed, and pulled between the finger and
thumb two or three times to w^arm the wax so that
it will stick. Pass the end through the eye of the
needle for from 1 in. to 2 in., according to the fine-
ness of the point, and holding the thread between
the finger and the thumb of the left hand, spin it
from you with the finger and thumb of the right
hand. Afterwards draw the thread from the needle
downwards at the point between the fingers so as to
stick the point together well and make it smooth.
Take care not to put it too far through the eye, or it
will be too thick to go through the holes in the
leather, while if it is not pulled through far enough
the thread is liable to break. Be careful also to get
needles of proper size ; light thread for light work
and strong thread for thick and heavy work ; and a
fine awl for fine thread, and a coarse and strong one
for coarser thread, and so on.
In making the first hole in stitching, put the
needle and thread up from underneath, and draw
exactly half of the thread through. Put both
52 Harness Making.
needles together and adjust the lengths of the two
portions of threads, and with the awl cut the second
hole, and stitch on. Always put the lower thread in
each hole first and draw it up about 3 in., then put
the other needle in and pull, always keeping the
thread from below lowest in the hole and the top
thread above. This is managed by pulling with the
upper hand a bit downwards, and with the hand at
the back of the work a bit upwards, thus tending
to keep the stitches in position. It may be noticed
that the hole is not round, but square and elon-
gated, and tends to help the manipulation of the
thread. Do not make a practice of pushing the awl
through the work at right angles to the face, but on
the slant ; the holes made by the wheel-pricker are
all on the slant. The above instructions also apply
to double-thread stitching, the kind mostly used in
harness making, though many things, such as the
straps, described above, are stitched with single
thread.
In back stitching, use one thread only ; begin by
putting it up from below ; put it down backwards in
the next hole to the one last made, and then pull it
tightly from below. There is not much difference
on the top side, but the stitches on the underside
are twice as long and cross each other in chain
fashion. Sometimes it is convenient to adopt this
method to use up waste points, etc., but such things
as traces, surcingles, waist-belts of web, saddle
girths, etc., are always stitched with single thread.
When repairing inferior harness, single thread can
sometimes be used without stitching backwards, by
doing what is called spotting, that is, always going
forward thus / / / , and only up and down forward,
the stitching appearing like spots, and not as an
unbroken chain.
Stitching with white lace in cart work is done in
this manner : — Put the holes on the upper side very
close together, but underneath ; the distance apart
Strap Making and Stitching,
53
may vary with the fineness of the work. This kind
of lace stitching is not much in vogue now, but it
looks well when across the end of breechings for
cart purposes, across the openings in cart cruppers,
etc. Lace needles and white skin will be necessary
for this work.
Riding bridles and almost all light brown work
are stitched single thread and backwards, with
either white linen, cotton, or silk beesw^axed, or
sometimes with yellow fine hemp thread beeswaxed.
Dog-collars are made in a similar way to Ihe
straps previously mentioned, only the bend is made
a little longer underneath to allow sufficient lining
under the D to which the chain may be fastened.
Now that an insight into stitching has been ob-
tained, the making of a waist-belt. Figs. 64 to 66,
Fig. 64.— Plain Waist Belt.
may be described. Cut the v/eb so that its ends
meet together round the waist, and also cut pieces
of very thin belly brown leather or basil, for binding
the ends ; the latter should be about 1\ in. wide, and
as long as the webbing is wide. Turn down the
binding along the centre lengthways, hammer it
lightly, and with the screw-crease mark along one
side ; then slip it in both sides of the ends of the
web, and either put a tack or two in it, to keep it
in place, or paste it down. Allow the paste to dry
before proceeding further. With the wheel pricker
along the crease mark the stitches, about ten to the
inch, then put the web in the clamp, the latter
being between the knees, and begin stitching at the
end farthest from the worker. Use one yellow or
54
Harxess Making.
white linen thread dressed with beeswax. On
coming to the end, cut the thread ; also cut tne bind-
ing square with the edge of the web and stitch both
ends across at some distance from the edge.
Prepare the pieces to be put over the straps and
chapes ; cut them about 3 in. wide, and straight on
one side, making any fancy cut on the other ; two
of these pieces are wanted, one at each end. Then
cut the straps and chapes, and use light tinned
bridle buckles or brown covered buckles | in. wide.
With the compasses set to the right width, mark out
the straps on a close piece of brown shoulder or
belly leather. Cut the straps about 6 in. long and
the chapes about 2-2 in. long. They may be cut in
long strips, being afterwards divided into the re-
Fiy. 6.).— Fancy Waist Belt.
quired lengths. Form the strap, point one end a
little, and shave the other end to go under the pieces
above mentioned ; rub the edges either with water
or solution, and crease them about tV in. from the
edge. Then turn down the chapes for the buckles,
shave down both ends thin, and let the lower one
be a little shorter than the other. Punch a small
hole about \ in. from the end, cut the hole clean out
at the bend, and the piece is then ready for the
buckle.
Use thin brown waste to make the loops ; with the
compasses mark a width of this about | in., cut to
the right length ; then rub and crease the chapes.
Place the buckles in the leather, put in the loops
about half the width of the chape between the two
Stkap Making and Stitching.
55
points of the chape, and close to the buckle, and
put two or three stitches in each end. The pieces
to hold up the belt firmly at the small of the back
should be about 1 in. wide. E-ub the edges and
crease them as well as the two pieces for the front,
and mark stitches with the pricker in all of them.
Three of these back supports will be needed, one
right across the centre of the belt and one on each
side, 3 in. from the centre at the top and slanting
inwards to within 1^ in. from the centre at the
bottom.
To determine which is the lower and which is th^
upper side of the belt, bear in mind that, when being
worn, the buckles will be on the left-hand side and
the straps on the right. Put one of the 3-in. wide
Fig. 66.— Waist Belt with Pockets.
pieces flat on the belt, within about 3 in. of the end,
and either paste or tack it in its place from the
lower side. Put the straps in about | in., all three
exactly alike, one in the centre, and the others one
on each side within \ in. of the edge. Place the
other piece in the other end so near the edge that,
in putting the buckle chapes up to the loops under
the edge of the piece, the outer edge of the buckle
is flush with the end of the belt. Fasten the chapes
in position exactly opposite the straps in the other
end. Then backstitch the pieces in each end all
round, in the same way as the binding was treated.
Put a second row of stitches farther in than the first,
through the strap ends and through the end of the
chapes ; leave about \ in. between two rows, and
then lay on the back straps. Having pricked them,
stitch them in the same way as the others. If
56 Harness Making.
pasted on, they can be kept more easily in their
place ; if pasting is not convenient, pencil on their
positions and keep them to the mark in stitching. I
It is usual to put a piece of whalebone or good \
hard cane inside these to keep them up ; thin the
bone or cane and push it in between the leather and
webbing from one end, and then stitch both ends .
across. Put four or six holes in the straps and see
that they work easily in the loops, when the belt is
finished.
57
CHAPTER IV.
LOOPING.
Some hints on looping will be given in this chapter.
The loops are pieces of leather placed crosswise on
all straps, which have buckles, to keep the point of
the strap in its proper position. Sometimes also
loops are employed merely to hold the straps in
place, as for example in the case of shaft tugs.
Loops are common to all kinds of straps in general
and to harness and cart gear in particular.
Straps made to exact length wdth only one hole
are cut long enough beyond the hole to go through
the loop, and so give the work a neat finish. When
the unused part of the strap varies considerably in
length, the part run through the buckle being some-
times 6 in. long and sometimes 3 ft. long, a runner
loop must be made to hold the point of the strap.
A runner is a loop which runs loosely along the
strap to any required part. To make it, one end
is laid on the other, overlapping it more or less
according to the size of the loop, and the material
is then stitched ; it must be made loose enough for
two thicknesses of the strap to pass easily.
The width of the loops, except in the case of pipe
or box loops (defined later) must always be in pro-
portion with that of the strap ; the broader the
strap, the broader is the loop. Taste and a due
sense of proportion are necessary here as elsewhere.
The loop must never be placed too near the buckle,
particularly when the strap running through is stiff.
Both ends of the loop should be placed so that they
can be firmly stitched ; the first end is stitched
easily, but the second requires more practice. The
ends of the loop should be made to meet in the
58
Harness Making.
centre of the strap, care being taken to catch it at
the first stitch, for then it will not easily slip from
its place. Two stitches on each side may suffice,
but a very wide loop will need four or five on both
sides of the ends. Slant the awl with every stitch,
using the end of the awl to drive the loop a little
out of the way.
It must not be taken for granted that a firm hold
of the loop has been obtained until it is com-
pletely stitched ; but make sure of the work at the
first stitch, as otherwise it may be necessary to
Fig. 67. — Box Creased Loop.
unstitch the work and do it again. Care must be
taken also to ascertain that the loop is straight in
its place at the first stitch, and that one side of the
same end is not farther in than the other. A crooked
loop spoils the appearance of the whole of the work.
Box loops (Figs. 67 to 70) or, as they are styled,
pipe loops, are long loops like those on bridle
cheeks, bearers of gig breechings, hame tugs, etc.
To make them, measure the length and width of the
loop required ; for example, a bridle cheek | in.
wide and 8 in. long will need a loop if in. Avide and
7^ in. long.
Looping,
59
Before making the loop, crease a line along the
place to be stitched, about \ in. from the edge, and
cut a groove along the line to about half the depth ;
then open the groove well with the blunt point of
a compass, passing it backwards and forwards. The
stitching is done along this groove, which is finally
closed.
The groove is necessary on account of the coarse
stitches, about four to the inch, which are thus kept
out of sight-and prevented from being worn away by
friction. Another method is to slit the leather about
Fig-. 68. — Box Creased Loops.
Y6 in. from the side ; then to raise it and stitch under
it. When finished, apply a litle paste or gum to
hold it firm, and smooth it down over the stitches.
Mark a line on the loop at about half the width
of the strap and run a writing pen along it to keep
the mark visible ; the loop, being of brown leather,
will retain the mark of the ink, whereas the compass
mark alone would be obliterated by damping. This
mark is essential as a guide in fixing the loop and
stitching. Mark the inside of the loop first time
and the outer side the second. Damp the loop well
first. Stitch the first side with black wax three-cord
6o
Harness Making.
thread about \ in. apart ; this is an easy job, the
difficult point being the blind-stitching. Put the
loop between the winker and the cheek as far as
Fig. 69.
Fie-. 70.
Figs. 69 and 70.— Box Creased Loops.
the mark and put a tack in each end and one in the
centre.
The first stitches are simple enough, but when it
becomes impossible to see and reach the hole the
Looping. 6 1
awl must be put right through the loop to the other
thread about \ in. apart ; this is an easy job, the
side, the needle and thread being passed after-
wards. Take the needles off both threads, and by
means of a wire hook pull the inside thread out
through the loop until it is 3 in. from the hole it
entered. Now put the awl through the thread close
to the loop, run the end of the other thread through
for about 2 in., and pull it through the hole by the
aid of the first thread to the side being stitched.
Take out the end of the thread, put through and
pull both extremities until tight, one in the groove
and the other inside the loop. Repeat this opera-
tion with every stitch, but when about half-way
through the loop, the thread inside must be run
through to the other end, the work being continued
from that end until finished.
Another method of making box loops, thougn it is
not recommended, is as follow^s : Put an iron loop-
stick inside and fasten the loop down by driving
small tacks into the groove, this groove being then
closed by rubbing the edges well. A third method
consists in running the threads through w^th a
bristle, or twisting the threads together and thus
running them through.
62
CHAPTER V.
CART HARNESS.
The make and pattern of cart gear are very varied
in all parts of the kingdom, and there is often a
local name for each particular style ; but the only
gear which can claim special favour is one that
combines proper strength with minimum weight.
G.£
Fig.
71. — Horse in Cart G-ear.
A typical shaft gear is shown by Fig. 71, in which
A is the bit ring, B the noseband, c winkers, D
cheeks, E ear-pieces, F throat-lash, g head-strap,
H forehead band, i reins, K collar forewale, k' hame
straps, L hame or jambles, M collar body and side-
piece, N collar draught, o forecart saddle housing,
p back housing, R cart saddle skirt, s girth and
Cart Harness.
63
girth straps, T crupper, u and v hip and loin straps,
w and X fore and aft breeching tugs, and Y breech-
ing
The ornaments used are brass buckles (Figs. 72 to
Fio-. 72.
Figs. 72 and 73.
Fig-. 73.
-Scotch Brass Gear Buckles.
75) instead of tinned or japanned buckles, with brass
face-pieces (Figs. 76 to 78) on the bridle to hang on
the horse's forehead, brass bells for the bridle (Fig.
79), hame plates (Figs. 80 and 81) at the top of the
collar between the two points of the hames or
jambles, with a strap across from one hame point
to the other to hold it in position, brass squares,
FiiT. 74.
Fig. 75.
Figs. 74 and 75. — Scotch Brass Gear Buckles.
ovals (Fig. 82), octagons (Figs. 83 to 85), hearts
(Fig. 86) on bridle winker or saddle housing corners,
and brass beading instead of nails over the top of
the housing where attached to the tree. When
64
Harness Making.
making gears this must be remembered. Other
details of cart ornaments are shown in Figs. 87 to 92.
Cart and leading gear made according to the fol-
lowing directions will be useful anywhere, and w^hen
this method has been learned any other style can be
made.
The winkers c (Fig. 71) must be prepared first ;
blocked winkers with fancy pattern raised against
the eye are little used nowadays. Fiain winkers are
just as safe for the eyes if well made. Special winker
leather must be obtained either from a middling in
Fijr. 76.
Fit
I I .
Figs. 76 and 77. — Brass Face-pieces.
stock, or, cut to pattern, from any currier or
leather-seller.
Cut the pieces straight 7 in. by 7^ in., and mark
three rows all round the long side and across one of
the shorter sides with the race compass or racer,
making the groove deep ; edge them above and
below with the edge tool and black the edges. After
soaking them well in water, bend them along the
centre of the longer width into something that is
nearly, though not quite, a semicircle. Nail them
down in any convenient way, with the raised part
above, on a flat board and let them dry in this
Cart Harness.
65
shape ; drive in the nails near the edges only at the
side that will be covered and stitched over with the
cheek. Th6y can be put to dry near a stove or fire.
Fisr. 79.
Fig. 78.
Fig. 80.
Fig. 81.
Fig. 78. — Brass Face-piece. Fio*. 79. — Bells and Brush.
Figs. 80 and 81. — Brass Hame Plates.
Then run a big hot beveller round the edges and
along the lines made until the groove looks deep and
polished. Having two |-in. roller tinned buckles, or
66
Harness Making.
brass Scotch buckles, cut two chapes to the same
width. Chapes are pieces to hold on the buckles ;
the name is also applied to the part going round
buckles on any length of strap. The chapes are
Fig. 82.
Fig. 83.
Fig. 84.
Fig. 85.
Fig. 82.— Brass Oval. Figs. 83 to 8.5.— Brass Octagons.
made 3^ in. long and turned down 2 in. from one
end ; make the short end very thin and the other
end slightly so, then point the piece. Cut a buckle
hole at the bend, edge, crease, and prick for stitch-
ing ; then put the chapes in the buckles and make
the tops of these last flush with edge and front of
winkers, working as follows : —
Tack the chape down in its place in the front
corner where the creasing on the edges meets, and
Fig. ^^.
Fig-. 87.
Fig. 88.
Fig. 86. — Brass Heart. Figs, 87 and 88. — Brass Stars.
stitch. With tinned buckles put on a loop ; Scotch
buckles, as Figs. 72 to 75, do not need any ; place
the other chape and buckle on the corner of the
other winker and stitch likewise, taking care to put
Cart Harness.
67
it on the reverse corner to the other to make the
winkers pair.
Now cut the cheeks d, or the pieces that run down
Figr. 89.
Fiof. 90.
Fig-. 91.
Figs. 89 and 90.— Brass Hame Knobs. Fig-. 91.—
Brass Swing.
the side of the head, making them 2 ft. 2 in. by
1^ in. ; turn them down so as to make both ends
Fig. 93.
Fi"-. 94.
Figr. 92.
Fig. 92. — Brass Swing'. Fig-. 93. — Ear-piece.
Corner-piece.
Fig. 94.
meet underneath in the centre, and give the bends
in each end a slight tap with the hammer. It is
68 Harness Making.
better to draw in the imderpart a little so as to have
the top somewhat longer, because as there is a bend
in the winker outwards the lower side should be a
little shorter. Cut a hole for the buckle in one end
and another in the centre of the bend, which is also
the centre of the strap, at the other end ; from this
hole cut straight out to each side and shave the
edges of the cut. Edge the cheek on the outside
only and race it along the top part with the race
compass ; the second race must be made close to the
ether, care being taken not to run them into one
another. Make another line a little more than \ in.
from the last, blacken the edges and lines with
black dye, and rub them with a rag ; then prick the
two inner rows with the pricker, eight per inch, put
the buckle in its place and the bit ring a in the other
end, and stitch both ends of the cheek together.
There are two bit rings on each side, fastened
together by a small link ; one ring, that placed in
the cheek, is larger than the other. The smaller
ring must be kept for the bit after the completion
of the bridle. Both cheeks are made in the same
way, but the slit from the centre hole in the bend
must be reversed, otherwise the cheeks will not
pair.
The winkers c and cheeks d (Fig. 71) being ready,
cut the nose-band b about 2 ft. long and 2 in. wide ;
turn in both ends equally, leaving about 1 ft. 4 in
for the noseband ; shave the ends rather thin, and
make a punch-hole in the centre of the bend, then
slit it out straight from both holes on the same side,
and shave the sides of the slit.
Edge both sides of the nose-band where it is not
double, and make two rows along it with the race
compass, deepening and polishing them with the
hot beveller, after which prick the double row on
both sides from the bend to the lined part.
The nose-band is now ready for adjustment at the
proper time. The forehead band h (Fig. 71), or
Cart Harness. 69
front, must be cut about 2 ft. 3 in. long and 1^ in.
wide. Edge, crease, black, and rub it and pass a
hot beveller over the grooves. Cut the ear-pieces e
(see also Fig. 93) 1^ in. wide and 9 in. long, and
double and flatten the bend, shaving one end well.
Take a piece of any strap l| in. wide, and put it in
the bend, close up ; mark how far the inner side runs
in the ear-piece, the l^-in. strap being allowed to
run smooth in the opening between the line and the
bend. Mark two rows of pricking, eight per inch,
on each side from the cross-mark to the point or
end, having previously made a double row of creas-
ing all along. Stitch from the cross line to the point
with three-cord thread ; stitch the cross line coarse,
about two stitches for one of the other stitches. Rub
the edges, making them even by cutting if neces-
sary, then black and rub. Place the forehead band
H in position, and stitch it end to end with the ear-
pieces, and cut a small V-nick in the joint of each
end on the same side.
The object of the nick is to provide space for the
small projection in the tongue of the buckle when
put into position. Some harness-makers cut the end
of the ear-pieces, before joining them to the fore-
head, in a slightly slanting way in such a manner
that the end with the opening will turn up a little
when in place, but this is not essential. Moreover, if
the forehead band is to be covered with any kind of
fancy cloth or leather, this covering had better be
done before the ear-pieces are stitched, because the
vvork will be much easier than when the bridle is
completed. Cut the material, red American cloth,
leather, etc., double the width of the forehead, and
allow \ in. more to go round the edges ; finally,
herring-bone-stitch underneath along the centre,
and stitch on the ear-pieces.
Corner-pieces (Fig. 94) are now required to sup-
port the nose-band and to join it and the cheek well
together when complete. They are in one single
70 Harness Making.
piece near the bit ring corner, descending from
cheek to nose-band. To make the cliin strap, cut it
1^ in. wide, one piece being made 6 in. long, leaving
2 in. of the original width, and then narrowing the
rest to I in. with a rounded point. The other part
is made 12 in. long, and 2 in. of the original width is
preserved, the rest being narrowed to | in. ; then
turn down a chape and make a hole for the buckle
in the narrow end, after w^hich edge, crease, and
black both, then adjust buckle and loop.
To put the bridle together ready for stitching,
work as follows : With a ring at one end and a
buckle at the other, place the forehead band be-
tween the cheeks in such a way that the centre
where the forehead band and ear-pieces join may be
right under the centre of the buckle with the nick
against the tongue. Drive a tack on the inner side,
and put the nose-band in the same ring as the cheek
at the other end, with the slits made in the bends
upwards ; fix the corner-pieces one part in the cheek
and the other in the nose-band, sufficiently low to
catch when stitching the nose-band. The corner-
pieces must, of course, be placed between the two
leathers, both in the cheeks and nose-band : the
inner side of the corner-piece must follow the ring in
the cheek like a half-circle.
The outer part is supposed to have been pre-
viously edged and creased. The point of the slits in
the nose-band comes underneath the slits in the
cheeks on both sides in such a way that the edges in
the cheeks may cover and neatly overlap the edges
of the slit in the nose-band and catch them during
work of stitching the cheek. Both winkers are now
adjusted with buckles in the front corners, turned
upwards to meet each other ; place the winkers close
to the ear-pieces and forehead, making the outside
flush with the outer edge of the cheek. Tack down
the winkers, keeping the bend in shape as set after
drying ; thus there is an opening between the two
Cart Harness. 71
sides of the cheek from the end of the corner-piece
to the bottom of the winker.
Cut a piece of leather as near as possible of the
same thickness as the winkers and of the same
width as the cheeks. Place it between the two sides
of the cheek to fill the hollow, and so have a firm
cheek all along ; tack the piece down and see that
it fits tight ; there must be no looseness where it
joins the winker and corner-piece.
The chin strap is now adjusted, the wide end of
the short piece being placed inside the cheek under
the centre filling for a distance of about | in. and
about \\ in. from the bottom ring. This is the right-
hand side, taking a front view of the bridle. The
other piece, with buckle, goes on the other side,
and both are tacked down. When two small loops
are to be placed on each side near the buckle at the
top of the cheek they should be tacked down so that
they may be stitched in with the cheek ; but for a
long loop, adjust beforehand on the cheek, by stitch-
ing the ends loosely together. Nail the first side of
the long loop and clinch the nails underneath over
a loop-stick, leaving this inside while nailing the
other side in the same manner, partly running over
the ear-piece e (Fig. 71) and forehead band h and
partly over the winker.
Stitching may be begun on the near side at the
ring, and continued up to the loop on the outside ;
then begin at the loop on the outside of the other
cheek and stitch down to the ring. The outer row
on the inner side of the first cheek and of the second
check is now^ stitched. When stitching opposite the
winkers on the inner line two stitches may be made
instead of one by slipping a stitch between each ;
fine stitching is apt to cut the winkers, and they
often fall off before being worn out ; consequently
slipping a stitch is a good method. A row must now
be stitched on each side of the nose-piece in each
end, then the inner rows of the cheek, and finally
7 2 IIarness AlAKim.
the inner rows of the nose-band. Level the edges of
the cheeks and nose-band, scrape them, and black
the edges ; then rub them with tallow and bone.
Having creased and finished the loops, make two
basil pads as long as the distance from the buckle
to the bottom of the winkers. For a cheek of \\ in.,
cut the pads 1 in. wider than twice the width ; fold
them lengthwise 30 that the edges will meet in the
centre, and stitch the ends together with the basil
inside out. Now^, after turning them inside out,
stitch the edges together like the ends with pointed
needle, thimble, and white linen thread. Run the
stitches from both ends and leave an opening about
1 in. long in the middle, through which ram in the
flock stuffing, but not too hard. Having stitched the
opening, place this side against the cheek of the
bridle under the winker, and as far as the buckle ;
choose three nails having large heads, run small
tufts of flock to the heads of the nails, and fasten
the pads down firmly to the cheek by driving a nail
in each end and one in the centre, taking care that
the points do not appear on the other side ; trim
the flock on the nails with the scissors.
The winker straps are made as follows : Cut a
strap 24 in. long and 1^ in. wide, then slit it exactly
in the centre for 13 in., making a punch hole at the
end of the slit ; shape the points of each slit to go
through the buckles on each winker, and make a
cross line 1^ in. from the end of the slit, marking it
deeply. At a distance of 1^ in. from this line make
a second line, and a third 1| in., making them all
deep ; turn down the strap so that the centre of the
bend will be exactly at the last mark. Knock the
bend flat if the point runs beyond the end of the slit
after turning down ; cut some off and shave it down ;
edge it on both sides except where the parts over-
lap. Crease all along the edges, and make one or
two rows with the screw-race ; then black, rub, and
finish the creases. Leave an opening from the bend
Cart Harness. 73
to the next cross line, then put a piece of leather to
fill the space between the cross line and the next to
it and wide enough to be stitched through in work-
ing across ; then leave the space between the next
two lines open, and stitch down the point of the
bend from the end to the cross line. Stitch along
the pricked part and along the cross lines, the
stitches on the latter being twice as coarse as the
straight lines.
There should now be two openings, one at the end
and the other beyond the next stitched part ; that
at the end is for the throat lash f (Fig. 71), and the
other for the head strap G. Having rubbed the
edges and finished, cut the head strap 1 ft. 10 in.
long and 1^ in. wide ; narrow the ends for the pas-
sage of the buckle, crease, black, and finish. Now
cut the throat lash 3 ft. 8 in. long and l\ in. wide ;
turn in 2 in. for the buckle at the best end and
narrow the point to enter the buckle at the other
end ; crease, black, finish, stitch on the buckle and
loop, and then finish the loop.
A rein is now cut 5 ft. long and 1^ in. wide for the
off side, and another 2 ft. 4 in. long for the near side.
Turn down the chape for the buckle in the weakest
end of the short rein, and 3 in. at the best end of
each to fasten to the ring at the bit ; then edge
crease, finish, and stitch in the buckle and loop, also
making a running loop on the short rein. Now mark
four rows of stitching on the double part about to
be stitched to the rings ; stitch the shortest part of
the rein with the buckle to the ring hanging by a
link from the cheek ring on the right hand w^hen
looking at the front of the bridle, then stitch the
long rein to the ring on the other side. Make three
punch holes on each side of the head strap, equi-
distant from the point and from each other, and
then six holes in the throat lash, three in the slits
of each winker strap, and nine in the long rein.
The bridle being ready for adjusting, place the
74 Harness Making.
head strap up to its centre in the opening next to
the slit in the winker strap ; then fasten each end
of the head strap to the cheek buckles through the
second holes. Now place the throat lash in the
opening in the ear-piece on the off side, running it
through the outer opening in the winker strap,
down the opening in the other ear-piece, and then
through the buckle at the other end.
Buckle the winker strap slits to the winker
buckles, pass them through the loop, and buckle the
rein in the sixth hole ; this completes the bridle. It
it is to be polished, coated with jet, or ornamented,
this must be done before putting the parts together.
Cut out all parts according to the dimensions
given before beginning to stitch ; this is more work-
manlike than cutting the parts as the work pro-
ceeds.
75
CHAPTER VI.
CART COLLARS.
In making a cart collar (see Fig. 95) the first part
to take in hand is the forewale a ; the material for
this must always be cut 8 in. longer than double the
length of the collar when finished, to allow^ for
shrinkage. Supposing the collar is to be 20 in., the
leather must be cut 48 in. long. The leather can be
cut from the bellies of gear hides, which come in
handy when proper hide is not available. Cut it
7-2- in. wide and make the length to meet require-
ments, and then damp it thoroughly. Stretch it on
' Fig-. 05. — Cart Collar without Side-piece.
a flat board by holding one edge with the hand and
pulling the other edge with the pincers. Fold it
over 2| in. all along ; adjust the compass by rule
to 2j in., and mark from the turned side, so that
there will be I in. of leather outside the mark on
which to stitch the lining. On the opposite side
there will be about 2 in. to draw in the body b and
stitch the side-pieces. Tack along the mark here
and there to keep it in its place.
Make a ten-strand thread, waxing it before and
after twisting. This thread must be long enough to
7 6 Harness Making.
stitch all the length, and at least twice as long as
ordinary thread. Use strong needles, making about
three stitches to the inch ; always leave the stitches
slack, merely drawing them home, especially for
about a foot on each side of the centre. Thus the
forewale will bend easier in working round, and the
stitches will tighten enough in stujfing. If the
leather has an uneven grain, close here and open
there, a piece of calico slack may be put inside the
forewale A ; take care that both sides of it are
caught in stitching. This will help to keep it
straight even when being stuffed.
The forewale is now ready for stuffing. Having a
bundle of r^'e straw at hand, pull a few handfuls
across the knee until the straw is straight ; cut the
ears off, and then cut the handful of straw in half,
and again divide it with the collar knife until about
9 in. long. Place it neatly in a heap near the work-
ing-seat on the right-hand side, with the collar rod
and mallet lying close by ; there must also be a
thick, solid block of wood placed on the firm ground
in front of the worker's seat.
The collar- maker must now sit down and mark the
centre of the leather with a nick or stitch. The fore-
wale is now placed on the block, and the left foot
laid on it, about 2^ in. from the centre, the folded
part of the forewale being furthest. Put the other
end on the right knee, and, holding the collar rod
in the left hand point upwards with the head against
the knee, take about half a dozen cut straws, and
give them a half twist with both hands. Place the
centre of the wisp in the nick of the collar rod and
hold it firm with the right hand, the forewale being
handled with the left. Put the straw in the fore-
wale and press it down to where the foot is on the
block, 2^ in. from the centre ; beat the wisp well on
the block with the mallet, leather as well, and then
put another wisp in from the other end, taking care,
when putting in the wisps, that they do not catch
Cart Collars. 77
those already inside and drive them back ; to avoid
this, beat well after each wisp has been put in, and
when the iron reaches them raise the point a little.
Continue to work in this way, putting in wisps alter-
nately at each end until the forewale is as hard as
it can be made. When the straw seems firm enough
not to move, the wisps can be knocked in instead of
being pushed by hand. See that they go into the
centre of the straw. Push the straw and rod down
the centre as far as possible ; turn the forewale and
the rod with the point upwards, knocking the wisp
in firmly against the collar block in front.
Repeat the process from the other side, and so
on until all is as hard as a piece of wood. To shape
and round the collar it must be continually turned
round the knee, turning one side to the right and the
other to the left hand. This operation is repeated
after every one or two wisps are put inside ; take
care that the forew^ale does not get straight. When
turned enough, three or four wisps may be put into
each side before changing ; but both sides must be
shaped alike.
When approaching the top, shape it inwards a
little in the same w^ay as it was turned ; fill with
straw until the top is quite firm, and then place it
flat on the block, beating it well into shape with the
round mallet, and holding it down with both knees
at one end while shaping the other. Now damp it,
and turn it backwards a little at the top on both
sides ; stitch both points firmly together with waxed
twine and collar needle and hand iron, cutting a
little off when necessary to bring it to the right
length.
To make a pipe collar, follow all the above direc-
tions and proceed as below. Obtain a piece of iron
9 in. long, \ in. in diameter, and having a sharp
point ; in the middle it must be shaped half-round,
with the points turning a little outwards and up-
wards. Put straw around it, tying it as tightly as
JZ Harness Making.
possible to within 2 in. from each point, and let the
straw at each end be of different lengths, a few
inches longer than the points of the iron, so that it
will splice well when stufEng is commenced. Add
straw, and tie again until the straw around the iron
is the right size, then place it in the centre of the
forewale, and stitch as tightly as possible, pulling
the stitches well ; make sure that it fills the forewale
well, but having passed this part, leave the stitches
slack. Now stitch from end to end, and stuff from
each end as in the other case, remembering to splice
them well where the iron ends ; the sharp point will
not be much of a hindrance. Finish as with the
other collar.
In making the body of the collar, cut the lining
to Fig. 96, and in any required size ; 14 in. is about
the average at the draught when the strain of pull-
ing is on the collar. Cut a leather throat-piece
about 2 in. wide at the base, and widening out to
3^ in. in a sweep to the top. Stitch the narrowest
end of the lining, which is about 4^ in. deep, to the
sweep of the throat-piece, turning in a little of the
linen or woollen check to make the part under the
stitches strong.
The narrowest part of the centre of the throat-
piece must now be tacked to the exact centre of the
collar by the stitches, putting the edge even with
the rim of leather running inside from the stitches.
Add another tack without pulling at the lining,
but leaving it rather slack from the centre, just at
the part where the forewale begins to run straight
upwards. Another tack is now placed within 5 in.
from the top on both sides, and the lining pulled
tightly to there from the bottom, the edges being
turned in all round.
Basil is employed for part of the lining in some
localities ; about 6 in. is measured from the top of
the collar. A pattern of the lining must be cut out
of brown paper, and then the basil can easily be
Cart Collars. 79
made to fit the shape of the linen lining ; the basil
must be whipped in with white linen thread and
the linen turned in a little under the stitch, being
rubbed flat afterwards. The lining being ready,
make a four-cord thread of black-wax, cut it in two,
and thread a harness needle with half. Having a
suitable awl, whip the lining in all round through
the leather rim above the stitches inside the fore-
wale ; the stitches of course must be inside, and
should be well rubbed. Everything is now ready
for making the body. Wax some strong twine or
make a long beeswax thread, with four or five
strands, 3^ yds. long, and have another about 1\ yd.
long with six or seven strands.
Now a strong old strap, 1 ft. long, with a buckle
is wanted ; this is called the throat strap. The hand-
iron, a medium-sized collar needle, seat-awl.
Fig-. 96. — Cart Collar Lining.
scissors, and collar knife being placed near at hand,
get a bundle of rye or wheat straw, preferably rye,
and place it straight together by the side of the
stool, with a sheet of drummed flock or basket of
carded flock all within reach. As during work the
legs are placed inside the collar, making it awk-
ward for the operator to move, it is well to have
handy a flat-headed mallet besides the collar mallet.
Thread the collar needle with the shortest thread
and hang it close by, and having pulled a big hand-
ful of straw from the bundle, sit down and put the
right leg through the collar lining, the throat being
placed upwards.
Place the middle of the handful of straw exactly
So Harness Making.
in the centre of the throat-piece, between it and the
f orewale ; then take the needle and thread it, the
handiron being in the right hand. Make a stitch
from the centre of the throat over the straw to the
big margin of leather on the other side ; make an-
other stitch at the same place to keep the throat in
the centre, and more stitches, about 1^ in. apart, for
about 6 in. up one side from the middle towards the
left. Fasten the thread and cut it, turn the collar
with the other side facing you, and stitch it again
on this side exactly like the first, taking great care
to make both sides similar in shape and size.
Take the stuffing-stick and fix a wisp of straw on
the point, beating it along to the centre of the straw
and a little beyond the centre of the throat. Place a
similar one on the opposite side, and so continue
until the bottom part is firm and hard. Now lay it on
the block, with the lining on the top, and pull the
lining outwards as much as possible. Hold it by
the knees, one on each side, and beat the throat out-
wards as far as possible with the round collar mallet.
Put the throat strap round it and the forewale, pull-
ing it as tightly as possible to keep it in position
while making the other part. Now take a wisp of
straw, large enough to fill the body of the collar
pretty well, cut it square at one end, so as to get
almost the full bulk at the section, and see that it is
long enough to go the full length of the collar body.
Wrap a piece of hemp five or six times round the
part just cut, making it firm for about 6 in. along,
and somewhat pointed. Run the long thread
through the needle, and put both knees through the
collar with the lining towards you. Open the lining
flat as it lies on the knee and raise the straw issuing
from the throat so as not to be in the way ; then
cut a piece of drummed flock to the same size as the
lining, to come within an inch or so of the edge.
Take care to place it level in all parts, reaching well
down towards the throat and forewale. Cut another
Car 7 CoLLARSi St
handful of straw and put it over the flock opposite
the draught and as near as possible to the forewale.
Open the straw running from the throat in the
centre, and put the long tied wisp inside, ramming
it as near as possible to the throat ; pull the lining
over the straw from the top to the bottom, and then
pass the seat-awl through the lining and leather to
fasten the top. Turn the collar the other way
about, put both legs in again, and begin to draw in
the lining where the bottom stitching left off.
Now lace it from bottom to top, running the
needle from lining to leather and leather to lining
till finished. Draw the stitches as tightly as pos-
sible, pulling each to tighten the other, as in lacing
a boot. So far, the collar is neither hard enough
nor shapely enough ; the straw must therefore be
beaten down between the lacing. To do this, the
mallet must be grasped round the handle close to
the head, and the straw struck as hard as possible
with the handle.
Having improved the shape of the collar, begin to
tighten the lacing again from end to end, keeping
the desired shape constantly in mind. If the collar
is not firm enough, begin work at the bottom, ram-
ming down some wisps towards the throat from be-
tween the stitches, and continue this until the
draught is reached, shaping as well as stuffing.
It may be hardened, from the draught up to the top,
by driving some wisps from the extreme top, and
shaped by tightening or slackening the lacing, as
the work demands
Great attention must be given to shaping, for a
well-shaped body is very important from the point
of view of both utility and appearance ; it should
be graceful and rounded at the bottom and some-
what flat at the draught, gradually growing narrow
tow^ards the top. At the extreme tip, however, the
collar should be rather full, with extra flock to ease
the neck. Work in the same manner with the other
82 Harness Making.
side, using as nearly as possible the same amount of
flock and straw ; take care to obtain the same shape
and size.
If any lumps can be felt in the flock, loosen and
level it with the seat-awl by stufiing it off or on as
required ; beat it slightly all round to give it a
smooth appearance. Cut the straw at the top, turn-
ing the lining down out of the way ; beginning close
to the fore wale, cut it slanting upwards a little
towards the back. Make two or three long stitches
in each side through the lining on both sides and
the straw to pull the linings together. Then stitch
together the two sides, drawing the lining over the
outer side ; run the stitches through from side to
side and cut the spare lining at the top ; this com-
pletes the work. Trim the points of the forewale
previously stitched, and cut them into a neat point,
which should be neither long nor sharp.
Having cut a piece of soft leather, form it into a
cap reaching low enough to cover the stitches that
join the point on each side ; stitch the front with a
welt between the edges long enough to reach the
back under the forewale, so that a stitch can be
put through it there when stitching the cap. This
last must be long enough to come over the point of
the body behind ; damp the cap and put it in its
place. Take a lace and the collar needle, draw it
down tightly into the hollow between the body and
the forewale, then stitch through it, burying the
welt underneath to fasten the cap in front by a
stitch.
The other part must be stitched with a lace all
round over the top of the body ; make the point of
the forewale very prominent to hold the hame strap.
Two \\-vci. straps, 18 in. long, must now be cut ;
race the edges and blacken them, point them for the
buckle, and punch four holes in each, and another
hole in each corner at the opposite end and one in
the centre 2^ in. from the end. The four holes in
Cart Collars. 83
the forepart are to fasten the buckles to the crupper
or cart-saddle and the others to stitch to the collar.
Place one on each side of the collar down to the
forewale 5 in. from the top. Fasten them with lace
by stitching through the hollow between the fore-
wale and collar body, putting two stitches through
and through to the other side ; then send the collar
needle in the direction of the other hole in the
centre of the strap, and make one stitch from each
side of the strap through this hole ; fasten the lace
well and cut it.
Pieces of leather of the shape shown by Fig. 97
are now required to cover the side of the body. The
pattern can be cut out of brown paper according to
the made body and kept for other work. Cut the
Piy. '.17.— Cart Collar Side-piece.
paper close to the rim all round to cover the body
full in all parts outside, but a little wider and
pointed at the top to keep rain-water off and give
a good appearance. Cut one side only at a time,
and, as the two sides join in the centre at the top
and bottom, cut the top slanting downwards
towards the forewale to the same shape as the body,
and line the top for about 1 ft. downwards on each
side with firm leather ; shave it on the inner side
and bottom.
The pieces need not be so wide as the side-piece ;
half its width or a little more will do. Make three
rows of stitching, and join them together at the
lower part along the lined part ; the distance be-
tween the rows should be about 1 in., with nine
84 Bar.vess Making.
stitches per inch. Rub the side-pieces and blacken
them ; crease two rows with a screw-crease all
round the outer side not stitched. When cutting,
take care to have the best part under draught.
Join the two sides together at the top with stitch
after stitch from one to the other, thus drawing
them close end to end.
Crease and prick a li-in. piece of leather, cutting
it to the same length as the joint, and thinning it
towards the collar end ; the other outer end must
be shaped to the point of the joint. Now tack the
piece and stitch, keeping it quite over the centre of
the joint, and making the stitches exactly at the
same distance on both sides ; it is w^ell to put a bit
of thin lining underneath the stitches. Damp the
side-pieces well in water, and have a long lace ready
to run the side-piece in ; damp and grease it, and
have it long enough to go all round the collar if
possible, with sufficient to spare for fastening.
Take out the side-pieces, beat the water from the
leather, and fasten the pieces to the centre on top
with a big strong awl or seat-awl. Pull them to-
gether as tightly as possible from top to bottom ;
let them overlap about 3 in. at the bottom, shave
the leather down a little here, and fix the pieces in
place with the awl. Then see that they are in the
right position, not too near nor too far from tlie
forewale ; put an awl on each side near the draught
to keep them in position there.
Begin lacing them in at the throat-piece, making
the stitches 2 in. or 2^- in. apart, at about the same
distance from the edge all round ; be sure to catch
the lining underneath with each stitch. Then take
another long lace and pull it in at the throat ; draw
it close to the forewale all round till the point of
commencement is reached, running a stitch over the
edge of the side-piece, and catching the leather
everywhere by the forewale ; the stitches should be
about \\ in. apart.
Cart Collars. 85
Some harness makers run a piece of leather about
13 in. under the draught, fasten it with a few
stitches to the collar body in the lower part, and
spot with lace to the side-piece all round the top
part ; coarse flock, or anything which will keep the
chains from the horse's shoulder when pulling,
being employed for stuffing ; but this will not be
necessary if the body of the collar is well made.
Others make the side-piece without lining, using
instead a round piece of leather with canes round
the rim, covering them with leather stitched on
both sides to protect the shoulders and collar from
wet. They are stitched with lace to the collar.
Experience, however, has demonstrated that
neither the horse nor the collar is any the worse
without such a device. In other localities the hous-
ing and side-piece are cut in one piece — a poor
imitation of a Scotch collar— and stiffened all round
with cane ; this involves a great waste of leather,
and is unnecessary.
86
CHAPTER VII.
CART SADDLES, REINS, ETC.
The saddle is another important part of cart har-
ness. To make a saddle for a horse about 15^ hands
high will need a tree (Fig. 98) measuring 14 in.
across the board right through the centre. It may
have an iron plate for the back chain covering
entirely the top of the tree, or only partially cover-
ing it, but with plates at the point and one in the
centre of the groove. The plate can be removed
from the first kind of tree when making the saddle,
but the partial plates are permanently riveted with
an iron pin. If the board across the tree is very
long it may be sawn off at each end, but never at
one end only. Saw off the same length at each
end ; a 1-ft. board is always long enough.
The tree can be obtained also in the pattern re-
quired for nailing housings (leather covers) on the
bridge of the tree at the top, or with a projection
running along both sides lower down for nailing. If
the housings are nailed at the side, the width need
not be so great as when nailed on the top ; the part
of the tree above must be covered with thin
leather, nailed under the housing at the lower edge,
damped and rubbed down close to the tree and
nailed at the very top.
The panel (Fig. 99) can be made when the tree is
ready. From the middle of each side cut the panel-
back about ^ in. longer than the boards and 2 in.
wider than the central width of the board. Leave
the space between the middle lines of stitches about
2 in. wider in front than at the back to prevent the
shoulder-bone of the horse being caught when carry-
ing a weight. Cut both sides alike, reversing the
pattern to pair them. Then whip them together
Cart S addles ^ Reixs^ etc. 87
along the centre and shorten the panel-back in front
by cutting from the point, slanting inwards and
upwards in the fore part.
Wlien the sides are joined, rub the stitches flat
and put pieces of leather, about 3 in. square, at
each end at the positions of the boards when the
panel is in position ; mark the back of the panel on
the spot to which the boards reach and then adjust
the pieces of leather, stitching them across, the
marks being nailed as nearly as possible in the
centre of the board. These pieces are for nailing
the panel in place when completed.
The panel must now be laid flat on the flannel
check or linen lining, which is cut about \ in. larger
than the I ack. As the panel is wider in front, the
iiiiing m ist be slit in the centre of the front as far
Fig-. 98.— Cart Saddle Tree.
as the point where the panel begins to w^iden ; then
cut a piece of the same material of the necessary
width in front and narrowing towards the back.
Whip this piece to the lining, turning dow^n the
edges of both while stitching. The extra \ in.
beyond the size of the back is now turned in, and a
coarse stitch run all round.
The leather basil facing for the panel is now cut
about 2| in. wide, then whipped in all round the
lining, being joined and stitched in the centre of
each side. Rub the stitches flat, and cut the lining
down round the back to about 2 in. wide, from the
centre on each side. Then, when stuffed, the panel
will be somewhat thicker in the front than at the
back, and will not sink down and press on the
shoulder-bones under a load. Now cut about li in.
88 Harness Making.
from the front part of the facing opposite the widen-
ing piece stitched to the lining ; cut it about 4| in.
long, gradually slanting it out towards the ends,
and cut about 2 in. at the back in a similar style.
Tack the facing round the back, centre to centre,
and both inside out ; run it with coarse stitches,
about three to the inch, keeping the edges together ;
it can be either spotted or stitched double. Now
well damp the back of the panel and the basil fac-
ing with sponge and water.
With scissors cut an opening in the lining exactly
in the centre of the panel and just large enough to
allow it to be turned inside out ; the cut must run
along the panel, not across. This opening can be
utilised for stuffing, but if it is necessary to make
the cut longer than is required for this, let the open-
ing be made a little shorter at each end so that the
slit will be in the centre of the length. Put a line
on each side of the stitches in the joining of the
back, about 1^ in. on each side at the back, and then
gradually widen from halfway to the front until it
is about 2\ in. on each side of the stitches. Tack the
lining underneath, making it tight and flat between
the two lines and keep the slit in the centre, so as
to have the lining distributed equally on both sides
of the centre of the joining in the back. •■
Now take a wisp of straw, about 9 in. long, and
wrap it round with hemp, making it firm and slightly
thicker than a finger ; tie the centre of the wisp
for about 5 in. and place its centre against that of
the panel in the gullet at the front, and draw the
facing tight for the distance between the two lines
just made. Stitch it from above tightly round the
wisp with a spot stitch to keep the gullet open and
from the shoulder.
The lining must now be spot-stitched on the back
along the two lines which have been marked, the
needle being passed up and down through both.
Leave an opening of the same length as the slit, and
Cart Saddles^ Reixs, etc. 89
carry the thread on the leather side from end to end
of the slit so that the panel can be stuffed through.
To stuff the panel, place it on the bench in front,
with the lining uppermost. Drive a stout clout nail
with a head into each corner, and one into each end
of the stitches in the side opposite the outer corners,
the other side of the panel being allowed to hang
over the bench, and the slit in the lining running
along the edge of the bench. Having a heap of
straw cut to the same length as the panel close by,
and grasping the stuffing stick in the right hand, lay
a w'isp across the front and push it to its position
with the stick. Lay another across the back, and
work it through the hole with the fingers ; then use
the stick to drive it against the facing inside.
Fig. 99.— Cart Saddle Panel.
A third wisp must now be placed in the side
farthest from the operator, and worked into place
with the right hand and stick, the left hand being
employed to keep the straw in position. Wisp after
wisp can now be added along the front until the
side is filled, but no more straw is put in the ends
after the first wisp.
Beat the panel level and flat with the collar
mallet, and run a piece of leather of the same width
as the opening and about 9 in. long inside the slit
for about half the length between the straw and the
lining ; this will clear the opening for the flock.
Have a hamper full of carded flock, and put a thick,
even layer over the straw, and press it down with ?i
90 Harness Making.
stick or seat iron to the edges and corners, making
it as smooth as possible ; then beat it again with the
mallet, and use a seat awl to level the surface, feel-
ing for lumps with the left hand. Work in the same
way on the other side to complete the panel.
A dock to fasten the crupper to the saddle is
placed across from board to board at the back. Two
l|-in. tinned rings are needed, and the leather must
be cut 1^ in. wide, and doubled to reach on each
side as far as half the width of the board. It is
better to make the dock in four thicknesses, running
double through the rmgs. Insert these, one at each
end, and drive a clout nail through each extremity
and clinch it on a piece of iron ; put one or two nails
in the centre, the points being shaved to make a
good joint in the leather. Spot it with white lace,
or stitch it coarse with strong thread, a row on each
side. Trim the edges, and black and rub it with
tallow.
Take two fine-pointed staples, and, with the dock
in its place, mark the position with the points of
the staples. Make holes for these with a gimlet
half-way between the tree and the end of the board.
Run the staples through the ring and knock them
down in the holes until about | in. shows on the
other side ; turn the points and knock them against
the iron level with the board, turning in the tips
a little to enter the board. The dock must be slack,
with at least the same sweep from board to board
as there is in the tree. Some harness makers nail
to the centre of the tree a 2-in. strap, about 10 in.
long, for fastening the crupper. This device can be
adopted instead of the dock, and a buckle put on the
crupper ; with a dock the crupper goes round it.
The flaps to protect the horse's side from the
back trace reach from end to end of the boards on
each side of the saddle. Cut them 9 in. deep more
or less, according to needs, making them ^ in. longer
at each end at the top than the boards. Swell them
Cart Saddles, Reins, etc. 91
out at the sides from the top and round the corners
at the bottom, and cut a fancy point in the centre
of the lower side.
Now hold them against the board with the same
length exactly over each end, and mark the width
of the tree on both sides on the flaps. At the marks
cut a slit about | in. deep towards the near edge,
and turn the leather inwards between the cuts in
the centre. Knock it down between the slits, and
cut a hole to admit the 1^-in. girth or strap at about
the middle of the flap on each side just opposite the
junction of the boards and the tree ; as there will be
two girths, a strap will run from each end of the
board. Edge the flaps and holes all round on both
sides, and make two or three rows round them with
the race compass ; finish them with a hot iron after
having blacked the edges. Reverse the cuts in cut-
ting the flap to catch at the top on the boards, as
these may not be the same length, back and front,
over the trees, and there may be a difference in the
positions of the holes for the girth.
The girths and straps must be made from good
leather, the fore girth being 4 ft. 10 in. and the hind
5 ft. 2 in. long, an allowance of 2 in. being made to
turn down for the chape. The fore strap must be
1 ft. 6 in. long and the hind 1 ft. 8 in. ; the width of
girth and straps is 1^ in. to If in. Edge the girths
along both sides, and turn down the chapes and
shape the points of the straps. Leave the best end
of each girth and strap for nailing to the tree ; put
two row^s along the edge with a race compass and
bevel with a hot iron. Stitch the buckles and make
the loops, adding two running loops ; finish the
loops with a loop-stick, and then crease them.
Black the edges before using a hot beveller and cut
four or five holes in the straps.
Now take the flaps and place the slit in the centre
opposite the tree, and turn down the part below,
thus having about an inch of leather on the board
92 IIarxess Making.
under the slit. Drive a saddler's tack in each end
of the board ; do this gently to avoid splitting. Put
the shorter strap in front and the longer behind into
the flap hole from above so as to bring the square
end out at the top between the flap and the board.
Adjust both in the same manner, and put four or
five nails along the edge of the flap and board,
taking care to drive two of them through the straps
and flap ; finally put another nail in the centre of
the strap above the edge of the flap. Add the girths
on the other side in the same way, and see that the
straps are on the near side and the girths on the
off, and that the longer of each set is behind.
It is not difficult to determine which is the front
of the tree because in this part the boards rise a
little and converge towards each other. Sometimes,
instead of cutting a hole, a leather loop is stitched
on the flap with an opening wide enough to admit
straps and girths.
The girths, flaps, and dock are now put in posi-
tion. Then place the front of the panel against that
of the tree, and press it in the centre just against
the top of the tree. Having the pieces to be nailed
on the centre of the board stitched to the panel,
fasten them to this part w4th four or five small
tacks, making sure that the panel lies close. Deal
w4th the hind part of the panel in the same manner.
Some harness makers always run a piece of lace
from the centre of the panel to the centre of the
tree in front, where it is nailed close to the tree.
The next operation is to cut the housings (Figs
100 and 101) or cover for the saddle top ; the width
must be 5 in. to 7 in., and the length sufficient to
reach from end to end over the tree by the side of
the groove on each side. The length can be mea-
sured with string. Do not cut the ends square to
the measurement, but bulge and round them so that
they are 3 in. more along the centre. Narrow the
front housing (Fig. 101) slightly for about 10 in. in
Cart Saddles, Reins, etc. 93
the centre so that it will rise there, and cut the part
to be nailed at the back as before, namely about
6 in. wide on each side from the centre, narrowing to
a sharp point at the lower end. The back housing
(Fig. 100) being straight on the outside, begin to
cut on the side about to be nailed from the corners
upwards, narrowing an inch from the corner until
it comes to a point in the middle. This improves
the appearance and lifts the front from the shoulder,
the back being thus made to match the entire piece.
Make three rows around the edges with a race com-
pass and run the lines deep with a beveller.
A brass oval or octagon may be placed on each
corner of the housings at equal distances from the
edge and end. Put these pieces in position and nail
them to the tree through the centre ; then tighten
Fig-. 100. — Cart Saddle Hind Housing-.
them at each end with the seat awl or other strong
awl, pulling down hard from the centre and driving
in a nail on each side while tightening. Drive nails
all along about 2 in. apart, being careful to make
the edge of the housing quite flush with the edge of
the tree so as to obtain the proper shape. The nails
can then be covered with brass beading | in. wide,
or a welt of the same width may be nailed down
with brass or japanned head nails. Seven or eight
stitches, nine per inch, must now be put in the
lower part of the housnig at the tour ends through
the flap, and will thus bind all neatly and firmly.
For the cart-saddle crupper, the body must be
cut 2 ft. 6 in. or 2 ft. 8 in. long and 3^ in. to 4 in.
wide ; cut a semicircle in the centre from the weak
end, a point about | in. wide being left at each side
94 Harness Makixg.
of the semicircle, and then cut an 8-in. piece to line
with this end. Next cut a piece of leather | in. wide
and 8^ in. long, shaving the ends thin. Stitch it
with the edges together so as to make it round to
within 1^ in. from each end. A cord or bit of leather
may be placed in the centre to reinforce this ; then
rub it round and blacken it, and flatten both ends
out with a hammer ; this is for hanging the saddle
on a peg.
The body that was cut first must now be pointed
at the square end, the width being reduced to about
2 in., the same cut being made on each side. Race
it along the sides and ends, then edge, black, and
run a hot iron over the creases. Now prick it,
about nine per inch, as far as the termination of the
lining from the semicircle.
The ends of the round piece lately made are
brought together and put under the points, one on
each side ; place the lining under them, and stitch it
all round and across the points from side to side
with a three-cord black wax thread, and trim, black,
and rub the edges. Cut the lay 1 in. narrower than
the body and 3 ft. long ; turn it in 10 in. at the strong
end and beat it flat. Turn it down 2 in. at the other
end, and cut it slanting down to 1^ in. wide for a
buckle of the same width ; cut a hole for the buckle
and run a line across the broad end 2 in. from the
point, another in the same direction \ in. from the
end of the bend underneath, and a third 2| in. from
this part towards the buckle. Edge only the top,
just reaching over the end of the broad bend ; then
make two lines of creasing and run a hot iron over
them.
Inner lines are made about \ in. from the inner-
most line, from the first cross line to the second, and
from the third to the buckle. Two spaces are left
for openings for the hip straps, one in the bend and
the other in the middle ; black and prick the parts
to be stitched, four lines between the two openings
Cart Saddles, Reixs, etc, 95
and four lines from the other side of the second
opening in the direction of the buckle. Fix the
buckle in place and lay it flat in the centre of the
body, the extremity of the broad end of the lay
reaching the edge of the semicircle ; tack it down
and stitch, keeping it well in position while working.
Stitch coarse or spot along the three marked lines
near the openings. The body is now finished.
A pad or panel is next needed. Cut some thick
felt to the same width as the body, and long enough
to reach from the point of the semicircle to 2 in.
beyond the cross line near the buckle ; cover it with
basil, and coarse-stitch it with a pointed needle
along the centre. Turn the ends neatly over the felt
and fasten ; then with stitches put it in place next
the crupper body. Tack down each end, and run
Fig. 101.— Cart Saddle Front Housing.
four or five stitches here and there through the body
and panel ; make sure that the work is well secured
at each corner. Cut a hole through the body
exactly opposite the buckle 1^ in. wide and broad
enough to pass the strap ; this is made 9 in. long,
pointing one end and shaving the other. Crease
and black it, and stitch the shaved end against the
narrowed end of the body. When finished and
punched, this w411 go round the dock in the saddle
and fasten to the buckle on the lay, running down
through the hole made in the body.
Sometimes, instead of the opening in the bend, an
iron dee is employed for the crupper, and the hip
straps are fastened thereto, a strap about 20 in.
long being used on each side of the dee. This is a
matter of taste, but care must be taken that the
measurement from the second cross line to the ex-
96 Harness Making.
treme end of the dee, when the lay is turned down,
equals what it would be to the extreme end of the
bend.
To make the breeching, cut the body, if possible,
7 ft. 4 in. long and about 4 in. wide. Turn it down
to 4 ft. 10 in. long, the strong end less than the
w^eak ; edge and black, and crease two rows along
the edges. Shave the ends, and mark a cross line
about 1^ in. from the centre of the bend on both
sides and at each end of the body.
Now cut some pieces 1 ft. long for lining between
the two marks in the bend and shave their ends ;
bend them flesh outwards, leaving one end about
1 in. shorter than the other ; otherwise it will be
bulky when inside the breeching. Put it inside the
bend after pricking the second row along the part
having the leather doubled, and across the bend
from one cross line to the other. When this lining
has been tacked in the bend, stitch from row to
row ; this is the eye for the bridgeband pin used for
fastening the chain. Trim the edges of the bend,
blacken, and rub them with tallow and a bone ;
then tack down the double part as far as it goes.
If, after being lined, the bend is rather hard, beat
it with a wooden mallet and stitch the double part
along both the ends and sides ; then trim, black,
and rub the edges.
The body is now ready for the lay, which must be
of the same length and 1 in. narrower ; edge, crease,
and black it all along, and make another line with
the compass \ in. from the inner line of the crease.
Prick the two innermost lines nine to the inch, and
turn down the lay at both ends to the same extent
as the body. Shave the ends and tack the lay in the
centre of the body, the light end of the lay being
placed against the heavy end of the body and in-
versely ; pull it down close over the ends of the
body and tack it in place.
Stitch all along the pricked part from end to end
Cart Saddles, Reins, etc. 97
to the cross lines, and spot or stitch cross lines,
making the stitching bulge inwards at the middle to
the extent of about 1 in. Make a hole with a large
punch exactly in the centre where the stitches bulge
inwards, and then, holding the round knife firmly in
the hand, cut out straight at each side to remove
a piece that allows the chain to enter and catch the
pin. Cut another hole in the centre 1 ft. 4 in. from
the ends by punching a hole 1^ in. farther on ; then
remove the part between the holes by two cuts,
allowing space for the l|-in. tug to go through.
Prepare the two bridgeband pins and four 1^-in.
buckles to match those on the saddle and crupper.
The pins have a dee at one end, and at the other a
screw-thread with nut and washer to fix it in place.
Two hind tugs 1 ft. 8 in. long must be cut from the
leather, 6 in. being turned down at each end to meet
the point ; make a buckle hole in the weak end of
each, and black, crease, and rub them. Prick the
tugs from where the chapes leave the bridgeband to
the loop or to the part w^hicli will have the loop.
Place the strong end in the hole in the centre of the
bridgeband from underneath, so that the joint will
be in the front under the loop, and put a buckle on
the other end. Make a loop about 2\ in. long and
sufficiently wide to go round the two thicknesses of
the strap. Make two rows of creasing, one at each
end, and stitch the sides loosely together ; then put
the loop on the tug and stitch the end of the tug.
Pull the loop over the joint and keep this and the
stitches out of sight in the centre of the strap.
A safe must now be cut sufficiently long to run
from the body of the bridgeband to an inch beyond
the end of the buckle at the top and \ in. wider on
each side of the tug. Narrow the bottom to the
width of the tug and shave it ; round the other end,
putting a loop on its extreme point in the centre,
both the ends meeting. Stitch it for about \\ in.
along both sides through the safe ; put the l-|-in.
6
98 Harness Making.
loop-stick in it, and black, crease, and finish. In the
next place put the l|-in. iron loop-stick in the long
loop on the tug and beat it gently until it is quite
flat and square. Fasten it securely from under-
neath with about five nails on each side, clinching
them against the iron loop-stick inside. Crease this
again with a hot iron and put a fancy stamp with
the maker's name or a neat creasing in the centre.
Then put the safes in their places, fixing the loops
on their ends just against the buckle at the top, and
stitch the safe along the part pricked from the loop
to the body of the bridgeband. Make two or four
rows and strong cross-stitch the tug at the bottom.
Now run a row of stitches across the top of the tug
through the safe between the buckle and the loop.
Make both the tugs alike, and to prepare the tugs
for the pins the loop is made as before, but it must
be shorter because the tug with the dee-pin should
have the same length from the body of the bridge-
band as the hind tugs. Join the ends and make the
safes similar, creasing the loops to a similar pat-
tern ; in fastening the safe to the tug, however,
stitch a row only across the bottom and top of the
tug, as it will be too short for more. Two loin straps
3 ft. 8 in. long by 1^ in. wide must be cut to fasten
to the tugs and pass through openings in the crup-
per ; point at each end, crease double at each side,
edge, black, pass a hot iron along the creases, and
make six or seven holes in each end to complete
them.
The parts next to be made are a leading rein, a
1-in. strap with a billet and buckle at one end and
a chain with a spring hook, called a cheek, at the
other. Black and crease the rein, and then stitch
on the buckles, billet, and chain.
The billet is the piece of leather stitched under
or behind the buckle for fastening this particular
end to any object. Make the billet 1 ft. long. The
full length of the rein must be about 8 ft. 6 in. ; the
Cart Saddles, liE/.vs, etc. 99
chain by which it is fastened to the horse's mouth
is put through the near ring and secured witli a
spring hook to the opposite ring. The billet end
is fastened to the crupper of the leader or the shaft
horse. This is very useful when horses take fright,
as the driver may then be able to catch the rein and
pull them in, though unable to reach their heads.
The 1^-in. hame straps are simple straps with a
buckle and loop at one extremity, the other end
being pointed with holes. Their length is about
1 ft. 8 in. ; they are employed to secure the hames
at the top.
Some harness-makers, for the purpose of orna-
ment, make, for cart horses, a breast-plate w^iich
extends from the bottom of the hames and collar to
the fore girth of the saddle or to the belly-band of
a leader. It is made of leather, bound with red or
yellow leather or American cloth, and the sides are
scalloped, and have two or three face-pieces placed
opposite the swell in the scallop, these face-pieces
being a litle narrower than the leather. A narrow
strap runs from underneath through a hole, catch-
ing a loop at the top of the face-piece, and then
down through another hole, and so on to the next.
When the strap is run all along, fasten the end
at the bottom, the other extremity being secured by
the billet, and buckle to the hames at the top. Run
a strap about 2 ft. long from the base of this scal-
loped part, and furnish it with a buckle. Put it on
the reverse w^ay and bring the other end through the
buckle, fastening it thereto ; stitch the end to the
bottom of the scalloped part, the other end being
furnished with a loop through which the girth may
pass. The part underneath the face-pieces may,
before being bound, be covered w^ith coloured
leather to give it a good appearance.
Now cut the cart belly-band 3 in. wide and
3 ft. 8 in. long ; narrow it down to 2 in. along a
length of 6 in. at both ends, and, without bending
ioo Hara-'ess Awaking.
the band, cut a buckle hole about 3 in. from the
point. Make two billets 2 ft. 2 in. long and 2 in.
wide, and edge, crease, and black everything. Two
loops must also be made about If in. wide. Prick
the billet, six per inch, for about 6 in. from the
shaved end, and adjust the buckle and billet,
making the latter lap over the buckle for 3 in. lower
down. Place the loop about 1 in. from the buckle,
tack all down, and stitch with a six-cord black wax
thread, twice waxed ; then make two or three
stitches in the centre of each end. Having opened
and creased the loops, make four holes in the
billets ; finally, give them a coat of Harris's liquid
or composition.
lOI
CHAPTER VIII.
FORE GEAR OR LEADER HARNESS.
The bridle and collar for a fore gear or leader
harness must be made in the way described in the
previous chapters, and will require no further ex-
planation here.
The back-band a (Fig. 102), long crupper r, and
belly-band d, still need description, however. Cut
the crupper from good leather 3 ft. 8 in. long and
5 in. wide, and make a split 9 in. long at the light
end and another, 7 in. long, at the tail end, leaving
the points of the slits in front of the full width,
merely cutting a little out of the corners. Narrow
the points at the tail end gradually to about 1^ in.,
and cut a little from the sides of each slit. A piece
of leather must be cut to line a foot or so of the
tail end, and a piece of soft leather 16 in. by 3^ in.
for a dock. Damp the dock well and turn down both
edges in such a manner as to overlap deeply along
the centre, the ends having been previously shaved
thin.
Now bring both ends together, making both sides
meet flat, but not with the flat sides together ; then,
taking hold of the piece on the flat in the centre,
turn the lower edge inwards and upwards, still keep-
ing the points together with the other hand. Nail
each point to a board and keep all parts in shape
until dry, when the dock will be firm. Edge, crease,
and black the body, making two rows all round,
rubbing the edges well and hot-creasing the lines.
At the tail end prick the second line as far as the
double runs ; if the dock is dry, put it between the
lining and body at each end of the slit. Tack it
down around the lining, and stitch.
102 , Harness Making.
A few egg-shaped stitches can be put inside the
outer stitches through the body and points of tiie
dock to keep the last in place ; trim the edges, and
black, rub, and tallow them, and do the same inside
the edges of the slits.
Cut two chapes to hold the buckles in front for
fastening the crupper to the collar straps ; bend the
chapes down about 4 in., shave one end and point
the other. Cut a hole for the buckle and prepare
the chapes for stitching ; then, having two loops
ready, about 1^ in. wide, tack them in their places,
keeping the outside of the buckle exactly level with
the end of each slit and the chapes right in the
centre. Stitch them down, put a cross stitch on
each side of the buckle, and shape and crease the
loops. Now cut the crupper lay 1 ft. 3 in. by 3 in.,
and turn it down for about 1 ft. at the good end ;
shave the end of the short turn thin, and round the
other end ; then edge, crease, and black the lay.
Cut two hip straps h (Fig. 102) 2 ft. by 1^ in., and
turn them down for 3 in. at the heavy end ; then
shave the turn down, point the buckle end, and
crease and black the straps. Attach them to a
3-in. japanned or tinned dee, one strap on each
side ; stitch four rows in the double of each, and
rub and finish the edge. Prepare two more straps
in the same manner, each 2 ft. 10 in. by 1^ in., and
stitch them in the middle round part of the dee
between the two other straps. These are the car-
rier straps L (Fig. 102) for the stretcher ; the hip
straps are for carrying the traces.
The straight part of the dee is now put in the
bend of the lay and placed on the centre of the
crupper bod}'^ at the same distance from each side,
the extreme point of the dee being within 8 in. from
the points of the tail slits. Tack down and stitch
two rows \ in. apart all round, eight per inch, with
three-cord thread ; then stitch the lay coarse, or
spot it across just to the dee. Some makers put a
Fore Gear or Leader Harxess. 103
pad under the crupper as with the cart-saddle
crupper, running it from the end of the tail slit to
1 in. beyond the point of the lay.
Hip-strap tugs k, must be made to buckle to the
hip straps running from the dee, and for hooking
in the traces. Having a pair of l|-in. hip-strap
chains (Figs. 103 and 104), cut the tugs 10 in. by
1^ in. ; bend them so that the points meet in the
centre, and cut a hole for the buckle in one end.
Stitch the points together and put in two narrow
Fig'. 102.— Set of Leader Gear.
*o
loops, one to be used to hide the joint, or have one
single broad loop for the same purpose. Place a
safe underneath the same as on the bridgeband
fore tugs, but stitch it instead of nailing.
In the next place make the tugs for the stretcher
carrier strap m (Fig. 102), and a strap 1^ in. by
1 ft. 2 in., and in the last bend a chape, and cut
a hole for the buckle. Stitch the buckle on with a
loop and make a running loop and a hole 1 in. from
tb'^, point of the strap.
104 Harness Making.
When placing the carrier straps in position, fix
a loop on each end of the stretcher and nail the
ends of the latter, leaving space for the strap to
pass. Run the strap down through this loop, the
runner loop having previously been put on the
strap ; then pass it through the runner loop to the
buckle, where it is fastened. Secure the carrier
straps to the same buckle over the carrier straps,
bringing their points down into the loop. Keep the
runner loop down by the stretcher to tighten the
tug and to produce a neat finish.
The hip straps must now be buckled in the tug
buckles, the hook fastened to chain traces, and the
collar straps buckled in the fore-slit buckles.
Whether the dock is put under the tail is optional,
because the hip straps, when fastened in the dee,
suffice to keep the crupper in place.
The back-band A, to carry the traces, is the next
part of the harness to be made. It must measure
about 4 ft. 4 in. from tip to tip, including the termin-
al chains or the eye, to which the traces are hooked.
If pipe, the leather must be made 6 ft. 4 in. by 5 in.
Mark a cross-line 1 ft. from each extremity, and
another 6 in. from each line, so that there will be
3 ft. 4 in. between the two middle marks. A piece
of lining is required for the part between the two
lines at each end ; this should be of the same width
as the back-band and 1 ft. 3 in. long. Shave thin
both tips of the lining and also the ends of the
turn-in of the back-band ; crease, black, and rub
the back-band, the crease being made from the ex-
treme lines right along. Prick the piece from the
outer cross-line at each end as far as the double will
run, making five rows with two on each side ; then
put the lining under the space between the two
lines so that it is 6 in. over one and 3 in. over the
other.
A narrow piece, shaved at the inner edge and
about 6 in. long, is now placed on both ends at
Fore Gear or Leader Harness. 105
each side of the 6-in. space to strengthen the eye.
Stitch the four rows in the 6-in. space, between the
two lines, with three-cord thread, eight per inch ;
turn the edges of this part and black and rub them.
Now turn down the ends, bringing the cross-lines
dividing the eye exactly opposite each other ;
flatten the eye so as to bring the parts with the
lines close together, and tack it in this position.
Take two 1-in. dees and place a piece of leather
inside them, on the flat side, for about half their
width. Put both on each side of the back-band,
one in each end betw^een the double close to the eye
and low enough to stitch through the piece of
leather inside, when stitching the outer row.
Fig-. 104.
Figs. 103 and 104. — Hip-strap Chains.
The dees must be tacked down as well as the
double ; fasten it right along both sides. The four
rows at both ends and sides are stitched to the top
of the double from the cross rows. If desired, a
fancy wave or pattern can be made instead of the
two inner lines of stitching. Then stitch or spot
with lace across the back-band along the cross-lines
near the eye ; open out the last by placing a thick
piece of wood, etc., inside.
Two straps must be cut 10 in. by | in., a buckle
and loop being adjusted to one end, and four or
five punch holes made at the other for the dee
io6 Harness Making.
fixed at the side of the back-band to pass through a
link in the trace, and thus secure the back-band.
Some harness-makers line back-bands from one
end to the other and stitch them ; others line the
inner part of the eye with sole leather, and place a
safe under the eye. This safe is about 1 in. wider
at the bottom, and narrows dow^n to the same w idth
as the back-band at the top ; the lower corners are
rounded, and then it is stitched in from the eye
upwards.
For the belly-band d, a pair of 3-in. chains is re-
quired, and the leather must be cut 3 ft. 4 in. by
3 in. Turn in 4 in. at the ends, and shave, edge,
black, and crease them ; then put the leather into
the openings in the chains, stitch four rows along
the double part, and spot or stitch across near the
chain.
The set of shaft and chain gear, as described in
Chapters V. to VIII., is now complete. The chains
are attached to the shaft harness or jambles to pull
from the shaft, while the leader harness has only
a hook for hitching the chain traces.
I07
CHAPTER IX.
PLOUGH HARNESS.
In plough gears the ordinary bridle and collar are
employed. The back-band is made in various ways.
The method with hooks is taken first. The eye of the
hook (Fig. 105, p. 109) is 4 in. wide. Cut the leather
3 ft. 9 in. long and 4 in. wide ; turn down 3 in. at
each end, and beat the bend slightly with the ham-
mer to keep it down, and crease it w^th the screw-
race, making two rows on each side ; mark the
centre from each end, and draw a line straight
across at this point, then two lines each 5 in. from
the centre, so that the distance between them will
be 10 in.
Cut two pieces of leather 10^ in. long and f in.
wide ; dye and crease one side of each piece, having
previously cut a small piece out of each corner of
the side being worked. A line must then be drawn
with the compasses along the centre of this narrow
piece. Make a mark across the centre, and place it
underneath the back-band, centre to centre, as far
as the line just drawn ; tack it down for stitching,
and place the other piece in the same manner on
the other side, so that the pieces may be a little
over both lower lines at each end. This piece is
called the facing ; the place on the back-band where
the pieces are to be stitched is pricked out before
tacking them down. The work of stitching is now
commenced, care being taken to keep the line close
to the edge of the back-band ; make the thread of
three or four cords of coarse hemp.
Having a l^-in. tinned dee at hand, cut a piece of
leather 1^ in. by 4 in. ; shave and point both ends,
then crease, black, and prick them like the side,
with eight or ten marks per inch. Place the dee in
io8 Harness Making,
the centre of this piece, and lay it flat on the back-
band in the centre, measured from both sides, or
from the top line to either of the lines below, and
then stitch, having tacked it down. When plough-
ing is being done, the rein is run through this dee,
and there must be one dee on each back-band on
the opposite side when the horses work in pairs,
but for a single horse there is one on each side of
the same back-band.
The next part to be made is the panel, used for
preventing soreness of the back of the animal when
ploughing, brought about by the constant pressure
in one place. Take a piece of linen, or basil
leather, 14 in. by 7 in., and lay the back-band on it
centre to centre, and evenly over both sides ; make
the spot stitch thus // // // across the back-band,
and through the linen along the middle line. Then
the partition between the two sides will show the
object of these facings, which make the pad slightly
wider than the back-band, and so ease the horse's
back.
Having stitched across the centre, turn in the
lining all round about \ in. ; if, however, the
material employed is basil, no turning is required.
Make a pleat at each corner of the end of the
facing, making both exactly the same length ; put
another pleat opposite the first, so that the width
may be the same as that of the back-band and
facing combined.
If the panel is basil, the corner is cut off to obtain
the true length, and then stitched together where
the cut was made instead of making a pleat. Now
begin to stitch all round, commencing about 1^ in.
from the centre on one side so as to have an open-
ing for stuflSing. Work round along the cross lines
at the bottom until within 1^ in. of the centre of the
other side in a direct line from the starting point.
Spot-stitching is executed in the usual style.
Stuffing is the next operation, the flock being put
Plough Harness. 109
through the opening left on each side of the centre
line. Lay the back-band flat on the bench and stuff
each side rather tightly by the aid of the stuffing-
stick ; the leather side of the back-band is under-
neath, whilst the openings are near the edge of the
bench. Smooth well towards the sides, and flatten
with a mallet, and continue the stitching along the
opening to the starting-point ; this completes the
top.
The hooks must now be put in, an operation
which is performed as follows : Cut two saving
pieces from a thick, firm face of hide ; good, close-
grained stuff is wasted on such work as this, the
best material, as a rule, being that from the face
of a gear hide. Cut the pieces 7 in.
long, and if the back-band is to be
4 in. wide, make the pieces 5 in wide.
Cut one end slanting to 4 in., of the
same width as the back-band, and
shave it. Round ofl" the corners of
the other end, leaving it the full ^jjf^^'f ^i^ji^f
width ; black and crease the edges.
Put the hooks in their places and the saving pieces under
them about \\ in. lower down than the extremity of the
hook ; tack them down exactly in the centre. Hav-
ing marked and pricked the back-band with four
rows running from the hook upwards to the end of
the saving pieces, stitch with a four-cord thread,
nine or ten stitches per inch, and then stitch a
line across close to the hook to bind all together.
Now the back-band is in working order.
The plough back-band, with chains instead of
hooks, is made in exactly the same manner, but
when there is only one chain and a bar across in
the bend to hold it, a hole must be cut in the centre
of the bend for the passage of the chain. For two
chains and a bar make two holes ; the saving pieces
can be made a little narrower with chains, and the
body of the back-band need not be so long in pro-
iio Harness Making.
portion to the length of the chains. As a guide in
determining the length of the body, whatever may
be the length of the chains or hooks, it should be
remembered that the length of the back-band over
all must be about, 4 ft. 4 in.
Couplings are also a necessary part of plough
gear. In some localities only cross-straps are em-
ployed from mouth to mouth when ploughing in
pairs. Cut the strap 1 in. wide and 28 in. to 30 in.
long, turn it in about 1 in. at each end, and make
a hole for the buckle, and shave the points. Take
two billets of the same width, 1 ft. long, and trim
them to a point at one end, shaving the other ; then
edge back, and crease them ; place the buckle in,
and then the thin end, 2 in. down at the back of the
buckle. Put a loop between the chape by the buckle
and stitch one billet and buckle at each end;
punch two holes in each billet.
Sometimes two coupling straps are employed for
a pair : the straps cross each other from the hames
of each horse to the mouth of the other. They are
made to the first style, but longer, being 38 in. in
length, each with 12-in. billets ; in some cases they
are made a foot longer than this, the coupling being
cut into two, one end 15 in. long with a buckle
and loop, and the other made to buckle on, with
numerous holes for adjusting the length. This is
a very convenient method, for when a young horse
is coupled with an old one, the coupling must be
shortened on the side of the former animal to keep
it back until it has learned the ordinary working
pace.
Ill
CHAPTER X.
BITS, SPUES, STIRRUPS, AND HARNESS FURNITURE.
Bits, their patterns and materials, will now be con-
sidered. Bits are made in polished iron, tinned
iron, in steel of various qualities, and in nickel.
Nickel is as expensive as good steel, but does not
Fig. 100.
Ficr. 107,
Ficrs. ion and 107.— Pelham Bits.
tarnish so soon, and when worn still continues to
take a good polish.
Some of the more expensive kinds of bits have
D
Fig. 108.
Fig. 108.— Pelham Bit. Fig. 101>.
Fis". 110. — Bridoon.
Fig. 101).
-Hackney Bit.
ornamented and silver-plated cheeks ; this is especi-
ally the case with carriage, military, and riding
bits.
112
Harness Making.
Biding bits are snaffles for a single head bridle
and rein, hence their name snaffle bridles. Pelham
bits (Figs. 106 to 108) are used for single head bridle
and double rein, this bridle being known as the
Fig. 111.
Figs. Ill and 112.
Fig. 112.
Ladies" Horse Bits.
Pelham. The Hackney bit (Fig. 109) has a bridoon
(Fig. 110), that is, the bit has only a mouthpiece
and a ring at each end with a jointed bar. This bit
is used for the Weymouth bridle, which has a
Fig. 113. Fig. lU.
Fig. 113. — Pelham Snaffle with Indiarubber Mouth.
Fig. 111. — Hacknev Bit with Indiarubber Mouth.
Curb
s are
used
double head and a double rein,
w^ith the two bits last mentioned.
Bits for horses to be ridden by ladies are shown
by Figs. Ill and 112. They are on the same prin-
Birs^ Spuks, Stirrups^ and Furniture. 113
ciple as those previously mentioned, but are lighter
and more fanciful, many of them being ornamented
about the cheeks. The Pelham snaffle (Fig. 113)
and the Hackney bit (Fig. 114), with indiarubber
Fig.
115.— Gig Snafflo. Fig. 116.— Wilson Snafflo.
mouths, can be had for tender-mouthed horses, and
double or twisted or smooth-mouthed bits can be
had for vicious or quiet horses as required.
Driving bits are commonly gig snaffles (Fig. 115) ;
Wilson snaffles (Fig. 116) have rings at each end and
two loose rings on the mouthpiece, one of which is
Fig.
Fig. 117. Fig. 119.
117.— Liverpool Bit. Fig. 118.— G-lobe Cheek Curb
Bit. Fig. 119.— One-horn Bridoon Bit.
buckled to the bridle cheek ; the outer ring on each
side is for the driving rein, but sometimes the rein
billet is put through both rings at the same time,
Wilson snaffles can be obtained bar jointed,
H
114
Harness Making.
tv/isted, or smooth-mouth. The Liverpool bit (Fig.
117) has a curb cheek, and a straight or solid bar
Fig. 120.— One-horned Bridoon
with Indiarubber Mouth.
Fig. 121.— Gig Curb
Bit.
mouth with the mouth bar loose on the cheek. The
Globe cheek curb bit (Fig. 118) has a ring at the
bottom of the cheek to which the mouthpiece is
attached instead of being loose as in the Liverpool
Fig. 123.
Fig. 124.
Fig. 122.
Fi-. 12;
Fig. 122.— Buxton Bit. Fvr, 123.— Swivelled Bridoon Bit.
Figs. 124 and 125. — Breaking Bits.
bit. A ^' one-horn bridoon " (Fig. 119), with one ring
at each side and either a solid or a jointed mouth,
Bits, Spurs, Stirrups, and Furniture. 115
sometimes has a leather or indiarubber mouth (see
Fig. 120).
Gig curb bits (Fig. 121) have the billet of the
Fig. 126. — Breaking:
Bit.
Fio-. 127.— Snaffle with
Indiarubber Mouth.
bridle fastened to the top of the cheek, with cheeks
on the lower side to which the reins are fastened.
The carriage bit most in use is the Buxton bit
(Fig. 122), which has a bend in the cheek below the
Fig. 128.
Fig. 129.
Figs. 128 and 129.— Exercising Bits.
mouthpiece, and a bar across at the bottom from
one side of the cheek to the other, the solid mouth-
piece having a port in the centre ; this is a smart
and very powerful curb bit, but it is being super-
Fig. 130.— Show or StalHon Bit.
seded by the Liverpool bit. A swivelled bridoon
(Fig. 123), as sometimes used with the ordinary
driving bit, has the bearing rein running from the
hames down through the swivel and up to a strap
stitched between the two slit straps of the head-
I II
Harness MakixG.
strap. Breaking bits (Figs. 124 to 126) are special
kinds of patent bits. Fig. 127 is an indiarubber
mouth snaffle ; Figs. 128 and 129 are exercising
bits ; Fig. 130 is a show or stallion bit ; and Fig. 131
is a double-mouthed snaffle.
Fig-. 131. — Double-mouthed Snaffle.
On the subject of spurs, very little need be said.
Besides ordinary pattern spurs (Fig. 132), there are
officers' regulation spurs (Fig. 133), dress spurs
(Fig. 134), ladies' spurs (Fig. 135), trousers spurs
(Fig. 136\ and box spurs. The last-named are
134.
Fig. 133. Fig.
132.— Ordinary Spur. Fig. 133. — Officer's Regulation
Spur. Fig, 131. — Dress Spur.
fastened to the heel of the boot by a spring inserted
in a steel box inside the heel. Like screw spurs,
which screw into a hole in the heel, they may be
taken off at will. Spurs are made in polished steel
Bits, Spurs, Stirrups, axd Furxiture, 117
and brass, some being silver-plated. The saddler
must have a supply of spur rowels for repairing
spurs.
Stirrups may be solid (Fig. 137), three bar or open
Fig. 135.
T\'x. 135.
Fig. 137.
-Lady's Spur. Fig. 136.— Trousers Spur.
Fig. 137. — Solid Stirrup.
bottom (Fig. 138), or they may be of the waving bar
pattern (Fig. 139). They vary greatly in weight
according to the purpose for which they are re-
quired, and are made of polished steel and of plated
brass or silver. Ladies' stirrups (Fig. 140) are of
various patterns, some having pads to protect the
Fig. 138. — Open Bottom Stirrup.
Fig.
139.— Wavinsr Bar
Stirrup. Fig. 140.— Lady's Stirrup.
foot, others having foot plates of the same shape
as the foot ; others, again, have slippers (Fig. 141).
Safety stirrups (Fig. 142) both for ladies and gentle-
it8
Hakxess Making.
men are made so that if the rider falls or is thrown
off the horse the stirrups spring open and release
the rider's feet. Thus the danger of being dragged
along the ground by the horse is obviated.
Ficr. 141.— Stirrup Slipper.
Fig:. U2.— Safety
Stirrup.
Some particulars will now be given of harness,
furniture. First the material will be touched upon.
Japanned iron furniture is strong and durable,
and has a fairly good appearance when new, but
the japan soon wears off and allows the iron to get
rusty. Common iron buckles, covered with leather,
are also used, but not so extensively as they were
formerly. The iron soon rusts, and the rust affects
the leather and causes it to crumble off, giving a
Fio-. 143. Flo-. 144. Fijr. 145. Fig. US.
Yir. 143.— Flat Side Wire Front Buckle. Fijr. 144.— Wire
^Front Bevelled Buckle. Figf. 145.— Bevelled Flat Top
Buckle. Fig. 146.— West End Bevelled Flat Top Buckle.
very shabby appearance to the rest of the set of
harness.
Brass furniture is largely used, and it is got up in
many qualities and styles of finish. The best brass
BiTS^ Spurs, Stirrups, and Furniture. 119
does not tarnish nearly so soon as common brass,
and, of course, has a good appearance when clean.
Partly covered brass or plated furniture is also
sometimes used, the buckles being covered with
^
T^
1 li
1!
^i!
i
1 11
; i
hi
' 1
[J
J
%
m
:^
Fig. U7.
Fi?. 140.
Fis:. i.-o.
Fig. 148.
Fi?. 147.— Spade Buckle. Fig. 14S.— Square Wire Buckle.
Fig. 149.— Chatham Buckle. Fig. 150.— Flat Top
Turned-up Buckle.
leather about half-way up the sides, leaving the top
and a little of the side bare. This looks very well,
and is more durable than iron-covered buckles, as
the brass- or silver-plate does not destroy the
leather so soon as iron ; partly covered furniture is,
however, very awkward to clean.
Buckles are occasionally covered with celluloid ;
sometimes this only partly covers the brass, alu-
Fig. 151.
Fig. 152.
Fig. 153.
Fig. 154.
Fif. 151.— Fluted Buckle. Fig. 152.— Swelled Front Bent-
leg Buckle. Fig. 153.— Flat Top Cab Buckle. Fig. 154.
—West End Whole Buckle.
minium, or gold-plated buckle, and it then looks
very rich. The celluloid-covered article is made in
imitation of the leather-covered buckle ; it is dur-
able, and does not require much cleaning, the occa-
120
ITarxess Making.
sional application of a wet sponge being sufficient.
Celluloid IS more commonly used in America than
in this country. It is a very inflammable material,
and will break if given a hard knock or if allowed
to fall.
Figr
Fig. 155. Fig.
155.— Chased Buckle. Fig. 156.— Melbourne Buckle.
Fig. 157.— West End Square Buckle.
Nickel furniture looks well, but costs a little more
than brass. Nickoline, white metal, or Victoria
metal furniture costs about the same as brass ; all
three look well when cleaned, but quickly tarnish.
Plated furniture is used on superior harness ; it can
be bought in different qualities, being plated with
silver, white metal, German silver, or nickel.
Of course, the hames and the buckle tongues are
Fig. 158.
Fir. 159.
Fijr. 160.
Fig. 161,
Figs. 158 and 159.— Covered Buckles. Figs. 160 and 161.—
Part-covered Buckles.
of iron, plated in whatever metal the rest of the
furniture is made ; they have to be of iron to with-
stand the strain to which they are subjected. In
ordering, it is necessary to state whether plated
Bits, Spurs, Stirrups, axd Furniture. 121
h:imes are required of the same material as the
i'arniture, and whether the latter is brass, silver-
plated, etc. The pattern of buckle required will
Fi^. 162.
Fij?. 164.
Fig. 163.
Fig. 165.
Fig. 162.— Shaft Tug Buckle. Fig. 163.— Burgess's Buckle.
Fig. 164.— Ball Terret. Fig. I60.— Plain Terret.
make a little difference in the price ; the wire-
shaped pattern is the one mostly used.
122
Harness Making.
There are so many patterns in gig and carriage
furniture that it is impossible to mention them all.
Fig. 166. Fig. 167.
Figs. 166 and 167.— Ball Terrets.
Attention will be directed, however, to some of the
most useful patterns of buckles. The flat side wire
front (Fig. 143, p. 118), the w4re front bevelled (Fig.
Fig. 16S.-Ball Terret.
144), the bevelled flat top (Fig. 1-15), the West End
flat top wire (Fig. 146), and the spade pattern (Fig.
Bits, Spurs, Stirrups, axd Furxiture. 123
147, p. 119) are all very neat buckles. Square wire
buckles (Fig. 148) on light gig harness look very
well. The Chatham (Fig. 119), flat top turned up
Fig. 1G9.
Fig. 170. Fig. 171.
Figs. 169 to 172.— "'lames.
Fig. 172.
(Fig. 150), and fluted (Fig. 151), are very strong
buckles for cab harness, as are also the swelled
front bent leg (Fig. 152), and side and flat top cab
Fi?. 173.
Fig. 174.
Figs. 173 and 174. — Bearing-rein Swivels.
(Fig. 153) buckles. The West End whole buckle is
shown by Fig. 154 ; it looks very neat for any fancy
harness. " Chased " (Fig. 155, p. 120), " Melbourne "
124
Harness Making,
n
(Fig. 156), or " West End square/' or " square wire
(Fig. 157) whole buckles, are all very showy and
smart when worked up. Figs. 158 and 159 are cov-
ered buckles, and Figs. 169 and 161 part-covered
buckles.
There are many different kinds of shaft tug
buckles ; that shown by Fig. 162 (p. 121) is a good
pattern, as is also Burgess's patent buckle (Fig. 163).
The terrets (Figs. 164 to 168) for the reins to
run through on the saddle and hames (Figs. 169 to
172), as w^ell as the bearing-rein swivels (Figs. 173
and 174) and all parts of the set of furniture, are of
a pattern conforming with that of the buckles.
Fig. 175.
Figs.
175 and 17G. — Roller Buckles
Cart-harness furniture may be of galvanised or
japanned iron, w^ith buckles of brass or white metal.
All the brass patterns illustrated are known as
Scotch gear buckles. Cart fancy-brass breeching
loops may be used instead of leather ones for
bridgeband carriers and bridle cheeks.
Fly-terrets are much used as ornaments on the
top of the bridle between the ears of the horse,
being either screwed down into a socket or riveted
in place. Brass face-pieces for the front of the
bridles on the forehead can be obtained in numerous
patterns.
Hame plates, to be put between the tw^o points of
the hames or jambles above the collar, look very
Bits, Spcrs, Stirrups, axd Furxituke. 125
well with a strap across from side to side as a fas-
tening.
Cart hames are either wholly or partly covered
with iron, and generally take their names from the
district in which the particular pattern is mostly
used. Thus there are the Manchester, Lancashire,
Irish, and Yorkshire hames. Cart bits, together
with their fittings, are always firmly attached to the
bridle, and are made either of tinned or japanned
Fig. 178.
Finr. 177.
Fis:. 179.
Fig. 177. — Hame Clip. Figs. 173 and 179.— Breeching Dees.
iron. They may be straight and jointed, or
twisted.
Chains, such as backhand, crupper, or hip strap
chains, and watering chains for bridle reins, and
plough backhand hooks or chains, are all wanted
in making up a set. Others necessary are : — Leader
backhand chains, cheek chains for the end of lead-
ing rein, bridgeband chains, and chains for the
bellyband, instead of billets, to go round the shafts.
Riding bridle buckles range in width from | in.
to 1 in. Stirrup leather buckles are also a special
126 JIakxess Making.
line, being from 1^ in. to 1^ in. in width. Saddle
girth buckles are 1 in. wide. Roller buckles (Figs.
175 and 176, p. 124) vary in size from | in. to 1| in.,
and are largely used on all kinds of leather w^ork.
Head-stall or head-collar buckles range in size from
\\ in. to \\ in. ; some have the collar attached, to
which is fastened the throat lash.
The following buckles must also be kept ready to
hand : — D-buckles for use on small straps ; and
japanned legging buckles, in sizes ranging from \ in.
to I in. Head-collar stop squares, for making
and repairing head-collars, must also be stocked, as
well as tinned and brass rings of different sizes, for
making head-collars and for miscellaneous repairs.
Brass, tin, and plated dees will be necessary for
making and repairing dog collars, and for holding
coat straps on riding saddles, etc. They range in
size from | in. to 1^ in.
Belt, brace, and garter buckles may often be
Vvanted, and 2 lb. or 3 lb. of buckle tongues for re-
pairing old buckles should also be obtained in all
sizes and strengths. Strong double-pronged buckles
may be wanted from 1^ in. to 2 in. There may also
be occasion to use harness buckles of all sizes,
patterns, and material, saddle terrets, hame clips
(Fig. 177), various kinds of nails, breeching and
bearing-rein rings, breeching dees (Figs. 178 and
179), and rivets for clips, etc.
127
CHAPTER XI.
VAN AND CAB HA11NE33.
The making of a set of gig harness is described in
the companion volume " Saddlery.'' Van harness
for heavy work requires a set of furniture, includ-
ing buckles, hames, and chains, and a van saddle-
tree. The furniture should be of brass, nickel, or
silver. Burgess's patent tug buckles (Fig. 163, p.
121) can be recommended for shaft tugs.
A pair of winker plates of any pattern (see Figs.
180 and 181) are necessary to make the winkirrs.
Beginning with the w^inkers, cut the leather about
i in. wider than the plate all round, except at the
back, where it must be | in. wider. If patent
leather is used, make a line all round the edge, and
another about ^ in. from it, and race a line across,
1^ in. from the back part, from one end of the inner
line to the end of the other ; of course, the other
lines must not be brought nearer than this to the
back. Prick along the lines, about eleven per inch,
and single stitch the inner line all round the four
sides, through the leather, employing black linen
thread double, vvith tw^o needles.
Cut the lining to the same size as the top, but
lightly stuffed and with little oil in ; put the top
on it and stitch all round three sides, leaving the
back open. Put the leather in water and wet it
thoroughly, and then, having" opened out the two
leathers with the hand, put a good coat of paste on
both of the inner sides by the aid of a spoon or
other convenient implement.
Push in the winker plate front to front ; but if
the front is round cornered, it must, of course, be
128 J:IaK.V£SS MaKIXG.
put in first. Push in the pieces until they lie
square in the leather and close to the front
stitches ; then rub the top and the lining down to
the sheet iron, being careful to make the lining
stick well to the sheet.
Place the winker on a board, lining underneath,
and tack down each of the hind corners, and if
necessary, the middle ; then put some paper or rags
between the winker and the board so as to keep the
lining up to the sheet. When quite dry and per-
fectly adhering, remove them from the board, trim
the edges, finish and polish well.
The collar is made practically in the same way
as a cart collar. The f orewale must be turned down
2 in., that is 4 in. altogether, and instead of whip-
ping the basil lining in as previously described, cut
it a little smaller, and stitch it in at the same time
as the forewale ; tack it down in such a manner
that when the lining is turned over to stuff the
body, the stitches will not be visible. Take a
pattern (see Fig. 96, p. 79) and let the lining
overlap in the centre of the forewale for quite 2 in.
Stitching is done as for a cart collar, both for the
forewale and the drawing in the body, but the last
must not be so big and clumsy.
In making and setting the top piece, no stitches
should appear in front other than the cross row ;
the top piece must not be joined downwards as in
the other. Turn in the bottom of the top piece for
\ in. across, and stitch a line w^ith black linen
thread \ in. from the edge to keep the turn in its
place. Damp the top piece, put it across the front,
and draw it tight, putting a tack in both sides ; then
make it overlap at the top centre of the back so
as to obtain a good point to hold the hame strap in
place ; then stitch all round the hollow^
Cut the side piece close along the sides of the
body to fit tight by the forewale. Then take a
piece of soft thin leather binding \\ in. wide, damp
Fa IV AND Cab Harness.
129
it, and place it edge to edge with the outside of the
side piece, tacking it down. Having stitched the
side piece, putting a small welt at the joint at the
bottom, and shaving a little round the edges, stitch
the binding and side piece together around the
edge with black linen thread, about seven stitches
per inch. Run a piece of twine along the stitches
round the rim, and turn down the binding over the
twine towards the inside, being careful to keep the
twine in place. Mark a line and prick it, about
eight per inch, and | in. from the edge ; then stitch
the binding down below the twine. The last must
be in one piece with 4 in. or 5 in. to spare at each
end.
Damp the side piece and adjust it ; tack it with
;;
ii
- -
-"- -
.--■. <
:;
<l
'."T ^
---•.
- r .•.-
7:^
Fig. 180.
Fior. 181.
Figs. 180 and 181.— ^Yinkers.
an awl at the bottom and draw it tight at the top.
Now wax a piece of collar twine, about 18 in. longer
than is necessary to pass round the collar, and
begin to stitch the side piece in at the top on the
off side, running the stitches through the binding
close to the stitching and through the lining at
every other stitch. The stitches may be about 2 in.
long ; draw them tight while working, and be care-
ful that the side piece is in its proper position, with
both sides equally level. Fasten the thread after
stitching the side piece all round. Take hold of
the hanging ends of the twine which has been run
along the binding inside, and pull them well to
draw down the edges of the side-piece along the
side of the body ; then knot and fasten them to-
130 Harness Making.
gether. Draw in the side piece at the forewale as
with the cart collar, using only thread or very fine
white lace.
A layer of old carpet may be placed on the
stitches next to the body under the side piece to
give the sides smoothness and roundness. Fasten
the two side pieces together at the top by stitch-
ing over from one to the other w4th the collar
needle.
A small housing to cover the top of the collar
must be cut, almost half-round in shape, but with
slightly widening points and a V-shaped notch on
the side next the collar for the points to pass, one
on each side of the top piece ; bring it down close
to the forewale. It may be bound in the same
style as the side piece, stitched fast edge to edge
with the binding, the latter being then turned and
a line stitched round a short distance from the
edges ; about | in. below that another row of
stitches is made all round. The point on the out-
side of the body must not project more than about
5 in.
Plain or patent leather can be employed to
make the collar and winkers ; patent leather must
always be marked for stitching with the race com-
pass, and a groove cut so that the patent will be
raced off and the line quite visible. This kind of
leather, when used to make the collar forewale,
must be lined v.'ith calico to prevent it cracking.
The van saddle (Fig. 182) is the next part to be
made. The tree is a miniature cart-saddle tree,
with similar boards and groove. The plates to be
put in the point of the groove where the backhand
runs through may be nickel or brass to match the
furniture. Begin vv^ork by fixing the terrets and
bearing-rein stand hook on the tree. Take off the
sockets which are attached to the screws, and see
that they are of the proper length to reach over
the groove of the tree from side to side ; file them
Van a. yd Cab Harness.
J-3I-
down to the width of the tree if they are too long.
Place the stand-hook socket exactly in the centre
at the top, and mark its position on each side and
end.
Cut out a hollow at the mark deep enough for
the socket to enter and lie flush with the surface,
and drive a small screw through each socket into
the tree. The terret sockets are fixed in the same
manner, being sunk level and screwed down, about
3^ in. lower than the stand hook on each side.
Cut two pieces of thin leather, either plain or
patent, to the same shape as each side of the tree
Fig. 182.
Fig. 182.— Van Saddle
Fig
Fig. 18J.
. Fig. 183.— Van Saddle Flap.
181.— Van Saddle Panel.
and about 1 in. larger each way. Damp them and
make a nick at the top of the boards in the leather
so that the centre of the piece will turn down
underneath. Tack each end of the leather to the
board close to the tree, then pull it tightly along
the entire surface of the side over the top, nailing
it here and there. Level it down on the surface
of the tree, and tack the centre part between the
boards underneath the tree, pulling it tight and flat
over all parts.
To make the flaps, cut out a paper pattern as a
guide (see Fig. 183), making it wider at the top
132 Har.^e^s MAicim.
than at the other parts and slightly raised in front.
The flaps must reach down from the lower part of
the groove in the centre for about 15 in., swelling
slightly at the sides and gradually narrowing to
about 2 in. at the bottom. The patterns may also
be cut straight without the swelling sides, but in
both styles they must rise in front more than at the
back ; as they are cut in two pieces, one for each
side, this can easilj^ be managed, because when
they are joined at the top this part will stand out
prominently in front.
Some flaps are made with stout firm leather,
others are lined. In the first case, make two rows
along the sides with the race compass and bevel
deep with a hot bevel ; but patent leather, instead
of needing the race compass, has tallow rubbed
along the part to be creased and the lines are
marked with the compass ; then run a warm
beveller deep along the marks, being careful that
it does not cut the leather.
When patent or plain leather is lined, use the
race compass and prick the grooves for stitching.
When stitched (or made without lining), cut and
polish the edges well and join them with a stitch at
the top ; place a piece of leather over the joint at
the front about 1^ in. wide, and stitch it on both
sides of the joint and across the front ; then shave
it thin at the side next the tree. A dee, of brass or
other metal, is placed on the outside for fastening
the crupper. Cover the joint at the back with
another piece of leather, turning it down on the
outside and shaving the other end thin. These
pieces should be long enough on both sides to pass
under the tree when the flaps are nailed. On these
the tree is placed centre to centre and front to
front, and a line is marked along the sides of the
tree from board to board on the leather.
Make a mark at the lower side of the board to
indicate the width of the tree there, and the width
Van and Cab Harness. 133
of the wood on both sides of the groove. Note
that this must be marked at the bottom side of the
boards, four marks being made at each end of the
tree, outside and inside the wood on each side of
the groove.
At this point take away tlie tree, and cut a slit
from the outer lower mark to the point of the one
running along the side of the tree ; there will then
be two slits of the width of the board, one on each
side of the tree. Now cut upwards from each of
the two inner marks at the bottom, for the length
of the other cuts and equal in width to the wood,
on both sides of the groove. Then cut across the
top of each incision from side to side ; there will
now be one cross cut and four cuts upward, and a
portion along the centre. Cut the middle piece
between the four slits at each end about 1^ in. from
the bottom, and shave the points ; now cut the two
narrow strips at each end to the same length.
The middle piece, unless there are plates, is
nailed along the groove with the narrow cuts under-
neath. Place flaps over the top and make the
edges of the centre slit meet at the centre of the
tree below. Nail the flaps down along the edge
of the tree, putting four or five extra nails opposite
the crupper loop in its chape. When there is no
plate, nail the centre piece in the bottom along the
groove ; put the narrow pieces down and nail them
with the brass beading, making sure that the part
of the flaps over the boards runs close to the tree ;
fasten it to the boards with four or five tacks.
Turn the centre piece down like the narrow ones,
and nail it to the board at each end.
Cut a top cover of strong leather of the same
width as the tree and to reach to within 2^ in. from
the bottom, so that there will be an opening for the
backhand ; crease it across both ends and bevel the
creases with a hot iron, or line both ends for about
2 in, and shave the inner side ; then make two rows
'i3'4 Harness Making.
of stitching across the points. Place it on the tree
in its proper position, and give two or three light
taps with a hammer opposite the three openings
for the terrets and stand hooks in the sockets ; thus
the size and position of the holes is marked on the
cover.
Holes, of the same dimensions as the socket
holes, must now be cut in the cover, and this nailed
dow^n on both sides of the tree, keeping the holes
in the leather exactly opposite those for the
sockets. A strong nail must be driven into each
corner so that it will not be prized up by the back-
band. Take a piece of beading long enough to run
along the top on each side and go down underneath
through the opening opposite the narrow cuts in
the bottom ; nail the beading on the side of the
boards or under them, securing in the same way
the narrow turned-down strip. The beading should
lie close to the leather along the top of the tree ;
drive the nails for the beading with a wooden
mallet.
The saddle is now ready for the panel (Fig. 184,
p. 131), the back of which must be cut to the same
size as the flaps ; it must not reach quite to the bot-
tom ; let it end, say, 2 in. from it. Basil can be
employed as material, and if this is light, a piece of
linen can be pasted inside, or a narrow slip may be
pasted along the edges. When dry, see again that
it is of the same size and shape. The facing must
be cut about \\ in. wide, and of the same length as
the sides of the panel ; it may be in patent or plain
leather to match the flaps.
When the material is not long enough it may be
cut into two parts and joined at the centre ; it is
then tacked along the edges and stitched for about
six inches. Rub the joint down as flat as possible.
Take some blue serge lining or collar lining and lay
it out smooth on the bench, and place the panel
back on it inside out ; with hemp, tack it along
Van and Cab Harness. 135
the sides to the lining, cutting the latter to the
same shape as the back, but wider by 1| in. or more
on both sides at the top. The lining then tapers
to exactly the same width as the base at the ex-
treme point. Narrow the lining at the gullet and,
just at the back in the centre opposite the opening
to be left, turn it in about \ in. ; run a stitch to
keep it down, and then w^iip it in with the facing "
from end to end and across the bottom, employing
black linen thread and a pointed needle and
thimble. No facing is placed across the bottom.
Now turn the panel inside out through the open-
ing at the top ; the joint is not stitched right across,
only two or three stitches being used at each end.
Some piping is now needed to run round the facing
to make both sides of the panel front stand out
round and straight.
Sometimes the facing is made of straw whipped
round with hemp until it is hard and round ; some-
times with damp brown paper rolled with both
hands on the bench ; or a simple cord of light twist
may be employed, and, in America, cane. In har-
ness of this description, cord will suffice ; it may be
covered with brown paper to about | in. in dia-
meter. Place it in the facing through the opening
at the top, making it reach to the bottom at each
side but not across. Turn the facing tightly over
it and begin to spot from the back, the stitches
being small and even on the lined side.
While w^orking, the panel should be kept flat on
the bench, the lining being uppermost and being
stitched close to the facing with a quilting needle
and thimble. Then place the lining flat and even
at the top, parting it alike on both sides and run-
ning a line of cross stitches from side to side on
both sides of the joining at the back, to about l\ in.
apart at the back and about 4 in. in the front.
The panel is now in two compartments. Cut
two openings across it, one on each side, below the
136 IIai^.v£ss a/ a king. >
line of stitches just made, and one to cross them ;
then stuff the panel with carded flock through
these openings, the stuffing-stick being employed
for the purpose. Fill it level from top to bottom,
but not too full.
Next mark, say, six cross lines, about 1^ in.
apart, from the bottom of the panel towards the
top, a rule being used as a guide. Take a long
three-cord black hemp thread made with beeswax
and quilt it, making four stitches or so in each line ;
use a thimble and quilting needle. Keep the
stitches in a straight line both downwards and
crosswise, and when the last line is reached, make
two stitches from back to front, thus leaving the
last line half finished. Now flatten it over the
stitches and stuff the top to the requisite thickness,
taking care to make it firm, though not hard, other-
v/ise it will become veiy thin when pressure bears
on it. Place the panel to the centre of the tree and
flaps, and put a tack on each side at the top to
retain it in this position. Some harness makers
run five or six stitches through the flap and panel
here and there, others spot them all the way along ;
but the best method is to put the panel in with
copper wire.
Stitching or spotting might do for common
work, small stitches being put in spotting on the
flap side and about Ij m. apart below. The
stitches, whether spotting or stitching double-
handed, should run out in the hollow between the
facing and stuffing below. Keep the facing even
along the edge of the flap a little outside rather
than underneath.
To fasten a panel, cut the wire into pieces about
5 in. long, and with a bent awl cut holes underneath
the flaps close by the outer row of stitches, all at
the same distance from the outside. Then place a
piece of wire in each, and, if for a gig or cab saddle,
nail the panel in the centre on both sides ; but in
Van and Cab Harness. 137
the case of a van saddle, nails need not be em-
ployed ; simply wire it all round. Keep the panel
right in the centre and fasten a wire in the top, on
each side, by cutting a hole with the bent awl for
each point of the wire just below the facing. Put
one wire in each hole and push the panel close to
the flap ; then twist the wire on the panel side with
a pair of pincers till the panel is pulled tight to the
flap. Give the wire a sharp twist with its points
together, and cut them within \ in. of the panel ;
turn down the points and press them out of sight
into the hollow between the panel and the facing,
rapeating the process along both sides with the
wire about 2^ in. apart.
A strap and a girth are needed to fasten to the
bottom of the flaps. Cut the girth 2 ft. long and
2 in. wide, and have a lay to put on about 9 in. by
\\ in. Make a buckle hole in the lay so that the
edge of the buckle will be level with the end of the
girth, as the chape is not to be turned down, but
is stitched on the flat.
A strong strap must now be cut 18 in. by l\ in.,
rounded at one end and shaved at the other, and
another piece of leather 2 in. by 4^ in., with one
end shaved and the other narrowed to 1\ in. ; edge,
black, and crease both. Tack the lay on the girth
with the buckle level to the end, and narrow the
girth to the width .of the lay at the point ; then
place two loops beyond the buckle and stitch the
lay. In the next place, the shaved end of the strap
must be stitched to the 4^-in. piece, the strap being
placed within 1 in. of the broad end. Finish the
loops, punch the straps, and stitch them, the strap
on the near side and the girth on the off side at the
base of the flaps, the stitches running across and in
a half circle from corner to corner.
The winkers by this time will be dry and fit to
work as part of the bridle. Straighten the outside
— that is, the part to be stitched — if it has got a
138 Harness Making.
little out of shape in wetting and nailing. Rub
the other edges with sandpaper and give them a fine
polish ; then shave the side for the cheek.
Having got four |-in. buckles ready for the
cheeks, cut the latter 2 ft. 9 in. by | in. and measure
1 ft. from the better end, marking it across for a
billet. Now round its point and measure 8 in. from
the first mark ; turn it down there, and again turn
it down 8 in. from the bend. Make a buckle hole
in each bend, and edge, black, and crease along the
billet part. Make a groove with a round knife or
grooving tool underneath on the billet side from
the cross mark to within \ in. of the top bend, the
depth of the groove being about half the thickness
of the leather ; open it out with the point of a
blunt compass or anything suitable.
The buckles can now be fixed, one in each bend,
and the winkers can also be placed between the
cheek up to the buckles at the top bend and level
with the outside. Cut a small nick just opposite
the projection of the buckle tongue so that the
winker will ascend on the top end close to the
buckle. See that the point of the turn-down run-
ning from the base bend is cut level with the
bottom of the winker, and run a stitch through
both, making the point fit tightly in the hollow
between the lower buckle and the winker.
Place three tacks on the outer side to keep the
edges together in their places. Make one loop for
each from medium heavy winker brown loop
leather about 7 in. by If in. ; damp it well and place
it in half the width of the cheek on the inner side
and stitch along the groove. Adjust the two sides
in the same manner, reversing the winker to pair
them.
The loops having been damped before being at-
tached, place a loop-stick | in. wide in each loop ;
then knock them square and level to shape. Black
them with soda and dye, dry partially with rag, and
Vajv and Cab Harness, 139
rub and polis^h well with a bone, making them shine
brightly. Now trim the underside of the cheek,
round the square edges, and polish. Apply a coat
of Harris's harness liquid both to the loops and to
the edges ; rub them well with the palm of the hand
and then with a little tallow, after which they must
be again rubbed w4th a rag.
The loops are nov/ ready for creasing and check-
ing, but in the first place make sure that the loops
are in condition ; if too dry, they cannot be creased
deeply enough, and if too wet the bevels and marks
cannot be polished. Test with a hot crease and
then hold them near the fire a little while ; finally
rub with the hand until they are dry enough. At-
tention must also be given to the temperature of
the tools when heated in the fire, candle, or gas.
Therefore, keep on the bench a small quantity of
water into which to dip the heated tools ; if the
beveller or checker hisses in the water it must be
kept there until this ceases.
Now with the screw crease or compass make two
or three lines across each end of the loop, and two
rows near each other along the edges on the face.
Trace out the design on the surface between the
outer lines, namely diamonds, single arrov/ point, or
double arrow points, etc. Having warmed the
beveller, mark deeply the cross and outside lines,
polish them, and then mark the outer lines of the
design with the beveller on the surface of the loop.
The space between the outer lines of the design
and the straight lines at the edge and sides must
now be marked with the warm checker, which may
be fine or coarse, according to the style of work ;
the design also will vary with the fineness or coarse-
ness of the work. The checking being finished,
run the beveller along all the outer lines in the
design and the straight line, to smooth down the
checker marks running to the bevelled lines and to
give boldness to the work.
140 Harness Making.
The noseband is made by cutting the leather
2 ft. 8 in. long by 1 in. ; it must then be marked 5 in.
from the point and again at a distance of | in. from
this mark ; then a third mark is made 13 in. farther
on, and a fourth | in. from the last mark. Turn
down 2 in. of the end marked last for the buckle ;
take \ in. from each end and each side as far as
the cross mark nearest the ends. Make a buckle
hole and shave, bend, and round the other end for
the point. Cut another piece for a lining, taking
the first as a pattern, and then thin the edges 01
both, slanting from the middle of the strap on both
sides, but do not thin the |-in. space in either
piece.
The first piece of leather that v/as cut with a
buckle hole can now be damped ; then with a groov-
Fig. 185. — Chain and Leather Gig Front.
ing board and hammer handle a groove is mado
along the full length, not including the two |-in.
spaces. Now cut a hole in the outer side of each
of the cross lines, marking two spaces, and cut twa
loops about I in. by 2 in. Shave the points, damp»
and put one end in each hole over the |-in. space ;
beat the points a little to flatten them to the
leather, and leave sufficient space for the billet to
pass between the loops and the noseband.
Crease the noseband on both sides from end to
end, i in. from the edge, and, if required, another
line can be made at the same distance farther in
from opening to opening in the centre only. Prick
the lines all along except opposite the openings,
fine or coarse, according to the style of work, and
then put the lining underneath and the buckle in
its place. Tack it here and tbere with fine tacks^
Fan and Cab Harness. 141
and with three-cord fine hemp stitch from end to
end, around the point, and across at the end of
the centre loops to fasten the loops near the
openings.
Stitch a second line if needed, and then the
buckle chape from underneath, and put in one or
two loops. Trim the edges, sandpaper, black
them, and polish ; then place sticks in the loops and
finish, making four holes in the short end.
The next part of the harness to be described
is the front or forehead band. Begin work by
cutting it 21 in. by 1 in., bend it dowm to pass easily
round a 1^-in. strap, and then mark it across the
length of the required opening. See that there are
13 in. between the two cross marks in the centre
and sufficient to stitch down the ends beyond the
Fig. 186. — Chain and Leather Gig Front.
openings ; shave the points and stitch down the
ends from the cross Imes to the points.
It can be covered with fancy coloured or striped
cloth or leather and herring-bone stitched along
the centre underneath, making a cross at each end ;
or a chain front (Figs. 185 to 187) can be employed.
In the last case a piece of patent leather must be
cut of the same length as the front from one cross
line to the other and of the same width as the fore-
head band ; adjust the chain and stitch along its
centre, taking the thread out at one side of the
chain, and running it through the link and down on
the other side close by the chain, and so on through
every link ; at each end through the link joint m.ake
a little chape and stitch double through it when the
patent leather is being adjusted to the forehead
band.
142 Harness Making.
Now mark a line along the edges of the patent
leather outside the chain and prick it fine, laying
on the patent leather from opening to opening, and
stitching double with beeswaxed linen thread and
a fine awl. Stitch the patent leather across also
at the ends, catching the above-mentioned little
chapes. Then pare, sandpaper, black, and well
polish the edges.
To make the head-piece, cut the leather l\ in.
wide and 1 ft. 10 in. long ; slit it 6 in. at each end,
and edge, black, and rub it well, and then crease
it with a hot creaser close to the edge and at both
sides of the slits. Now cut a |-in. chape, long
enough to clasp the buckle and the headpiece and
to reach no farther than the far side. Make a
buckle hole in it, and edge, black, crease, and
finally prick it.
Cut a loop \ in. wide, trim it and place the chape
in the buckle, tacking it exactly in the centre of
the head-piece, after having cut a small nick
exactly in the centre for the projecting tongue to
enter. Stitch it in place, running a line across at
the end opposite the buckle ; then make four holes
in each of the slits.
The winker strap is made as follows: Cut it
from stiff leather 1^ in. by 13 in. long and re-
move the centre piece with a punch at the top of
the slit, the last being 7^ in. by*^ in. Beginning at
the slit, gradually narrow the other part to | in.
wide to run to the head-piece buckle at the top.
Crease, black, and rub well with a hot iron and
make three punch holes at the pointed end. Take
the winkers and open a small slit by cutting the
stitches between the leather at the top corner in
the front ; put a ^-in. length of the slit in each
winker and stitch the points there firmly.
All that is now required to complete the bridle
is the throat lash ; make it 2 ft. 3 in. by | in. and
turn it down at each end to 1 ft. 8 in. ; then make
Van axd Cab Harness. 143
buckle holes in the bend and shave the points.
Edge, black, crease and rub well, prick the bend,
and put in the buckles with the bearing-rein
swivels, one at each extremity. Having made a
loop or two between the buckles and swivels, stitch
down the chapes, going below the swivel suffi-
ciently to keep it in place.
Put the bridle together by passing the ends of
the front piece into the rosette loops, and placing
one slit of the head strap on each side of the rosette
loops at both ends of the front piece, the centre
buckle at the top pointing in the same direction as
the front. Secure the winker strap at the top
buckle, and both inner slits of the head strap in
the top buckle of the cheeks ; then pass the billet
through the noseband opening. Make sure that
the noseband is buckled on the near side, and then
Y'lg;. 187. — Chain and Leather Gig Front.
put the billets through the cheek of the bit and up
again through the loops on the outside of the nose-
band and cheek buckle.
The throat lash must now be buckled on the off
side and the strap passed through the loop on the
near side ; the noseband being buckled, the bridle
is finished. It may be coated with liquid blacking
or composition before it is put together, and the
buckles and rosettes can be cleaned with paste
and washleather or a clean soft rag.
To make a bearing rein a middle piece must be
cut 6 ft. by I in. ; finish it and bend 2 in., making
it ready for a buckle. Shave the end thin and cut
it to a point ; if two buckles are employed both
ends must be prepared alike, but with only one
buckle one end must be pricked for stitching to the
144 Harness Making.
ring of the round part. Cut the round parts If in.
wide and 2 ft. long ; turn them down and narrow
them to I in. at one end, the turned-down part
being 2 in. long. Turn down about 1 in. at the
other end and prepare it for a buckle, shaving the
point thin ; then damp round the central part,
bring the edges together, and cut a groove on each
side to sink the stitches.
With a blunt point, open the groove before
stitching and have a piece of cord thick enough to
fill the inside and 1 in. longer at each end ; unravel
it at the ends and thin the strands by pulling off
some of the material with an awl. Run one end
of the cord through the bearing-rein ring for an
inch and whip it round with waxed hemp so that it
will be secured there.
Open the strands at the other end and put half
of them on each side of the buckle tongue at the
part which will be in the leather ; whip this again
fast to the buckle and see that it is of the right
length inside the round to reach tightly from the
buckle to the ring w^hen in its place. It is now
necessary to put the ring in the long bend and the
buckle in the short one.
Now cut a billet 9 in. by | in., and after shaving
one end thin, round the other and prepare and
crease it. Put it in the billet and a loop, and stitch
the other end fine in the ring ; stitch the round
along the groove, being careful to have the thread
in the centre of the groove at both sides and to
catch the points of the turn-down at the ring and
the point of the billet in the other end, between
the edges of the round part, making two or three
stitches in each, thus joining them firmly with the
round part. Then with the spokeshave trim them
round and neat, rub with coarse glasspaper, and
finish with fine ; close the edges of the groove well
over the stitches and try to make it look as much as
possible like one round, solid piece.
Fa.v and Cab Harness. 145
After well blacking and polishing the bearing
rein, give it a coat of liquid blacking, polishing by
sharp rubbing ; finish neatly around the ring and
buckle, crease the loops, and make one or two holes
in the billets.
Xow prepare the middle part. When there are
two buckles, begin by punching a dozen holes
within 9 in. of each end ; with one buckle of course
only one end is punched. Five running loops large
enough to pass over the strap double must now be
made, as explained. When they are finished and
polished, put the two points together through one
of the loops and pull that loop to within 2 in. from
the top ; fix a buckle on each side and two loops
after each buckle with the right side out. Now^ run
the points through the rings to the buckle and put
a chape in place, fastening the buckle in about the
sixth hole from the end and leaving the chape un-
stitched. Then pull one loop over the chape close
to the buckle and the other loop down to the ring
on each side.
To make the crupper, cut out the body 2 ft. by
If in. and slit it for 8 in. at the strongest end ;
taper the other end to 1^ in. wide and cut a l^-in.
billet 3 ft. 9 in. long. Shave the strong end thin
and round the other ; cut the lay 16 in. by \\ in.
and shave one end, rounding the other. The
points of the slits and the end of the body must
also be shaved, the slit points being tapered. Black
and crease them all, only the top of the lay being
edged.
Place the round end of the lay close to the slit
end, in the centre of the body, and 4 in. from the
round end make a deep cross line followed by three
other lines at intervals of 2 in., and at the same
distance from the fourth line cut a hole for the
buckle ; then put an awl at each corner formed hy
the cross lines into both lay and body so as to make
a mark visible below ; there will thus be a guide for
J
146 Harness Making.
use when stitching underneath to indicate where to
begin and end.
Cut a groove from the shaved end of the body as
far as the first awl mark below, then from the
second to the third, and finally from the fourth to
a distance of about 1 in. towards the point of the
lay; this groove must be made on the under-side-
Cut through one half the thickness of the leather
at a sufficient distance from the edge to catch the
lay on both sides in stitching. ]Now adjust the
buckle and lay once again, and then trim four loops
about f in. wdde and place one before the buckle,
a second on the other side before reaching the first
opening, another between the two openings, and,
finally, the fourth beyond the lash.
The lay must be stitched in from the underside
with double waxed thread, a cross stitch being made
at the corners of each opening and the thread being
brought straight over the opening to the opposite
corner without cutting. Stitch over the loop at the
slit end, but no farther, the remainder being
stitched fine round the end from above. It is better
to stitch the crupper lay from below because it will
then be smoother and the stitches will not be so
likely to rub the hair off as when they are on the
surface, there being much friction at this part.
Having placed the stick in the loops, finish with the
hot iron, making a running loop for the billet.
The dock (Fig. 188) that is placed under the tail
is made of soft close-grained leather, 1 ft. 3 in. in
length, and tapered from the centre on each side
to about I in. when doubled over at the points.
Groove it carefully along the edges at a slight dis-
tance therefrom, and stitch it loosely with three-
cord fine hemp, about six per inch, merely pulling
the stitches home ; then damp it well.
Having a pint of whole linseed near at hand,
drive a nail through one end to close the opening,
and then, placing the linseed on the apron, scoop
Fan and Cab Harness.
M7
it in with the open end and ram the dock tight from
end to end with a stick or iron rod till it is filled.
Fiff. 188.
Fig. 189.
Fio-. 188.— Crupper Dock.
Fig-. 189. — Breeching, etc.
Fig. 190.— Back-band.
Fig. 191.— Shaft Tugs.
Fig. 191.
4
m
?==r
0,
I
I,
;o;
1
'. I
;0.,
«B
■oi
'0 ;
c 1
0 '
Fi-r. 190.
Take one end in each hand and twist the piece to a
round shape, endeavouring to bring the stitches on
148 Harness Makisg.
the lower side. Knock the two ends with nails in
them into a flat board, and keeping the centre on
the board, raise both sides and draw them as close
together as possible with a piece of soft leather
tied around them. Then allow them to dry and
trim the stitched part and sand it, rounding it with
the other parts ; polish well, thin the top sides of
the points, and knock them flat with the hammer.
Stitch one to each slit of the crupper body for
about I in., finish the edges, and put about a dozen
holes in the billet.
To make the breeching (Fig. 189), cut the leather
7 ft. 6 in. by If in., and turn it in 4 in. at the better
end, so that it will be 3 ft. 8 in. long when double.
If the lower part is too long, cut it off, allowing
about 2 in. for splicing, and shave both ends. Both
edges must now be shaved on the inside of the top
and bottom so as to slant outwards ; damp the top
from one bend to the other. Kound it on the large
groove of the grooving board, crease it along both
edges, and prick it eight per inch. If the bend
seems too weak for the rings these can be lined.
Cut a strip of leather or an old rein, 1 in. wide,
and shave it round along the edges and at the
ends ; it must be long enough to run from ring to
ring.
Having prepared the rings and breeching dees
(Fig. 178 and 179, p. 125), cut the bearers from
good leather, 10 in. by | in. ; turn them down so
that the points will meet, and flatten the bends.
Prepare one end of each for the buckle, and cut a
groove along the lower side, where there is no
joint, and open it. Place the buckles and dees in
two bearers and the rings and buckle in the two
remaining, joining them on the side under the loop.
Stitch the ends together, making them meet ex-
actly in the centre of the bearer.
After edging the end bends, black them, because
this would be troublesome work later; then cut
Fan and Cab Harness. 149
four loops, 3^ in. by if in., blind-stitch them, and
finish them like the others. Make the pattern match,
finish the back of the bearer, and close the groove
well. A ring must now be put in each end of the
breeching, which is then tacked in place for stitch-
ing. Place the lining lately cut in the centre to
i-aise and strengthen it, and then stitch along both
the sides with three-cord coarse hemp ; reserve an
opening about G in. from the ring for the bearers,
but do not fix these in it until the body has been
stitched and trimmed.
Some fancy style of stitching can be run along
each end from the ring about 6 in. when the straight
lines have been stitched along the sides, or have
tw^o extra straight lines instead of fancy w^ork,
bringing the lines to a point at 6 in. from the ring,
or again make four rows all along the breeching.
The body being well trimmed and finished, put
both bearers in on the same side, one at each end
where the opening w^as left. Before this, how^-
cver, put a small piece of leather inside to fill the
hollow square in the breeching dees ; stitch this
firmly in place.
For a hip-strap to match the breeching, cut a
strap 4 ft. long and a little more than double the
width of the buckles on the bearers ; slit it for 16 in.
at each end, each slit being the width of the bearer
buckles, and if it is altogether too wide, the w^aste
should come off the centre. Then edge, black, and
crease it neatly and put eight holes in each end.
The breeching straps to go round the shafts
must be cut 3 ft. 3 in. by I5 in., and w^hen the light
ends are turned down, are 2 ft. 6 in. long. Round
the point, and shave that of the turn over ; then
prepare the bend for the buckle, and edge, black,
and crease.
Cut four strong loops about | in. wide, and
having neatly finished them, prick along about 3 in.
from the buckle on the low^er side. Tack on the
150 Ji/ARJ^£^S MAKINC.
two loops, one near the buckle in the usual posi-
tion, and the other close to it but in the reverse
position to turn under the strap. Stitch them with
strong thread, and, having finished them, bend the
strap from the loop to the end of the underpiece
and run a dozen stitches on each side at the point.
Bend it so that w^ien in position in the ring the
parts will be even ; if stitched without bending, the
lower part will pucker. Finish the loops and put
six holes in each strap.
The back-band (Fig. 190, p. 147) may now be cut
out, its complete length being 8 ft. The centre
piece passing through the saddle is 3 ft. 3 in. long,
the strap or buckling end measuring 1 ft. 6 in., and
the remainder being for girth. If it is for a van
harness it must be in three thicknesses along the
centre, but the strap end will be strong enough in
two thicknesses ; when the belly-band part is very
light it may also be thickened a little. Place the
belly-band buckle in the belly-band end, and if
necessary line the chape ; then round the point at
the strap end. Crease all along and make two
rows on each side of the centre, bringing them to-
gether in a point at the extremities. Strictly
speaking, one row on each side of the belly band
and strap will suffice, but four rows are better ; in
the last case, crossing the two middle centre lines
at the end of the centre part w^ll improve the
appearance.
An opening must be left in the stitching about
1^ in. from the buckle, and two openings lower
down, 2 in. apart, to receive three loops when the
back-band has been completed. Stitch it about
eight per inch, with four-cord thread.
For finishing, use a spokeshave, and rub the
stitches underneath to level them well ; round the
edges w^ell towards the stitches, making the edges
neat in appearance. Scrape it with glasspaper,
place the buckle on the hook, and black the edges
Van a. yd Cab Harness. 151
and stitches ; ru.b vigorously with the rag in the
right hand, holding each side of the back-band
with the other. The hand should be moved briskly
?Dackwards and forwards so as to dry and polish the
edges well. Now pass a ball of tallow along the
edges and again rub well with the rag, after which
the three loops may be placed on the belly band
and stitched from below, the reverse side to the
other stitches. Then punch eight or nine holes in
the strap and three in the centre part at equal
distances from each crossing of the middle row of
stitches, or from the point of the inner rows if the
centre only has four rows of stitching. Leave
about 1 ft. 6 in. in the centre without holes.
The shaft tugs (Fig. 191, p. 147) are made by
cutting a 1 ft. 7| in. length of leather to the same
width as the buckles and back-band — that is, If in.
Overlap this piece 4^ in., the overlap then being
bent together and knocked flat in the centre.
Through both leathers cut a hole for a buckle in
the bend, and shave a little on the sides of the
hole underneath where the tongue enters, so that
the buckle will run close to the leather.
Shave both ends, the inner very thin and the
outer or top one moderately, cutting a little off
each corner. Crease two rows on each side as on
the back-band, and, having pricked the rows seven
per inch, place the brass or nickel loop loose on the
strap and adjust the buckle therein. Draw the two
holes in the centre, where the buckle is placed,
exactly opposite each other, and stitch the top
point of the overlap along the two inner lines for
about 2 in. through the two leathers.
The shape being now obtained, the tug must be
filled and thickened. This is done by cutting a
piece of leather to fit the inside tight from one side
of the buckle to the other, keeping the buckle in
position while working. Cut a nick in the centre
of each eno^ of this piece so that the tongue and
152 Bar NESS Making.
sides may fit close to the buckle, and then cut
another good piece of leather to go round inside
tight and to overlap at the top for about 1| in.
Now shave each end and cut a groove on each side
for about the length of the loop on the part in-
tended for it, and overlap it on the side opposite
the loop just below the buckle, with the outer point
of the overlap on the top pointing towards the
buckle and not downwards.
If the tug needs more thickening, place another
piece under the inside lining to reach from the
metal loop (placed below the leather loop) round
the bottom and about halfway up the other side,
leaving it with its thickness at the end near the
metal loop ; shave the other end thin.
The metal loop must fit tight between the end
of the piece and the leather loop. It must now be
tacked together from the inside, the joint at the
overlap being made firm. The lining should be of
sole leather ; damp it well so that it v/ill fit into its
place and be easier to stitch. Begin stitching at
the buckle with four-cord thread and work round
to the metal loop ; then begin at this part on the
other side and stitch to the buckle. Continue to
work in this way until four rows are stitched.
Trim the edges, and black and polish them,
paying particular attention to the part about the
buckle.
There is an opening from the metal loop to the
buckle remaining unstitched ; this, with a groove
cut underneath on the lower side, is for the loop,
which must be about 2 in. wide. Having inserted
one side for about half the width of the tug, stitch
it with six-cord double waxed thread from the
buckle to the metal loop, being careful to bring the
awl out with each stitch in the centre of the groove.
Stitch the other side as far as the buckle and make
two or three cross stitches on each side of the
buckle.
Kix AND Cab Harness.
153
If there is iiiiich imevenness on the part from
the end of the loop to the buckle, a little filling
may be put in the space. The loop must be longer
than usual because the back-band is extra thick.
Shape the loop with a thick bent loop-stick big
enough to make plenty of room for a back-band.
Black and finish the loop, make a pattern or check
it if necessary, and then remove all unevenness,
close the grooves, and trim neatly about the loop
and buckle. Repeat the operation with the second
tug, and then all will be ready.
The big loops for a shaft and the hame tugs,
etc., must always be made of firm loop leather,
Fig. 193.— Cab Saddle Tree.
Fig. 192. — Four-wheeled
Cab Saddle.
which will grow hard in finishing and retain its
firmness and shape in spite of rain and weather.
For the traces, trace end chains will be needed ;
van and cab traces are stitched to the hames, being
shortened by having ten or twelve links of a chain
at the other end. The traces may be 4 ft. 9 in.
long by If in., being 1 ft. 1 in. longer with a chain.
They must be in three thicknesses, but with two
thicknesses to go through the chain dee and hame
ring (Fig. 171, p. 123).
In putting the upper and low^er part together,
place the light end of one against the heavy end
of the other, thus levelling the trace and making it
154
IJ'ARNESS MaKINC
of equal strength. Shave the points well where
one ends and another begins-for example, the
lining in the hame ring and chain dee. Having
turned the leathers down to the right length, crease
and prick them, seven or eight per inch. Tack
down with only the chain on and stitch the four
rows, but not so far in the hame end as to prevent
the hame ring being placed in position when they
are finished. When both are stitched, trim, black,
and polish them ; then rub down the stitches under-
neath, and having fixed them to the hame ring,
stitch them to it, and finish that end like the other
parts.
F,g. 194.
Fig. 1 9 i.— Hansom Cab Saddle.
Rein Stops
Fig
196.
Figs. 195 and 19J.—
Make two hame straps | in. wide, the top strap
1 ft. 10 in. long, and the lower 1 ft. 4 in. Adjust
the buckles at the strong ends and make two loops,
reversing them as on the breeching straps ; have
seven or eight holes in each.
The driving reins are 1 in. wide, and the fore-
part near the horse's head is 6 ft. long on each side.
Turn down the chapes at the strong ends for the
buckles, and shave the point thin ; then cut two
billets, 1 ft. long, from a firm piece of leather.
Shave one end and round the other, and, having cut
Van and Cab Harness.
IS
two loops, edge and finish them ; then rub all and
crease them close to the edge with a hot creaser.
Adjust the buckles, prick the part of the billet
to be stitched a little inside the outer crease, and
stitch the billets in with the loop. When the loops
are finished, make a hole in each billet far enough
from the point to allow what is over to come
through the loop, and cover the stitches on the
front.
B.
^H
Fig. 197. — Htmscm Cab Harr.es ^
Make the brown hand parts 5 ft. 6 in. long, and
narrow the light end of one part to pass through
into a |-in. covered buckle ; then turn down the
other point and narrow it for the buckle chape.
Finally, prepare a narrow brown loop. Shave and
taper the other end of the hand parts to a point,
edge both sides below and under, and damp the
edges with gum and water, or with water only.
15^ Harness Making.
Polish them well by rubbing, making them even
everywhere ; brown paper is excellent for polishing
either black or brown edges.
After creasing them very near the edge with a
screw crease, place the buckle and loop on the end
and mark a line a little inside the outer one, about
2\ in. or 3 in. long, on the end to be spliced on the
fore-part. Prick it fine and stitch with a fine
thread, pointing the stitches in the upper end to
the same shape as the others. The hand parts can
be obtained ready cut with buckles, and then all
that has to be done is to shave the ends and stitch
them to the fore-parts.
Four-wheel cab harness can be made in the same
way as van harness, except the saddle (Fig. 192),
which is made exactly like a gig saddle, but is
heavier and has brass or nickel screw studs in each
corner of the skirts ; Fig. 193 shows the top or
tree.
Hansom cab harness is not much different,
though the saddle (Fig. 194) is lighter, and some
have rollers inside the saddle so that the back-
band may run smoothly backwards and forwards
through the tree ; these trees are made to order.
In Fig. 197, A indicates the noseband, b winker, c
forehead band, e throatlash, f cheek, g rein, h
collar, I trace, J saddle, k shaft tug, l cantle of
saddle, m crupper, n tug strap, o bearer, p breech-
ing, and E shaft strap.
The hansom reins must be about 20 ft. long on
each side, each brown hand part being about 7 ft.
long. They are generally showy and ornamental.
Winkers and saddle, hip straps, martingale, and
breastplate have ornaments, the reins have ivory
rings and stops (Figs. 195 and 19G), and there is a
face-piece ornament on the bridle.
Both four-wheeler and hansom harness (Fig.
197) are larger and heavier than gig harness, except
at the saddle.
INDEX.
-►o«-
Awls, 21, 22
Back Stitching, 52
Backband Hook, Plough, 107
, Van Harness, 15'J
Backs, Hide, 37, 39, 40
Ball Terret, 124
Band, Forehead, 68
Bands, Mill, 40
, Nose, 63
Basils, 40
Beeswax, 30
Bells and Brush, Bridle, 63
Belly Band, Cart, 99
Belt, Waist, 49
Bent Awl, 21
Bevellers, 21
Billet, 93
Bits, 111-116
Black Wax, 31, 33, 45
Black-ball. 44
Board, Cutting, 42
Body-belt Webs, 45
Box Creased Loop, 57
Loop, 57
Strap, 49
Spurs, 116
Brace End Punch, 15
Brass Face-pieces, 63
Gear Buckles, Scotch, 65
Hame Plates, 63
Nails, 35
Ornaments, 63
■ Polishing Paste, 47
Squares. 63
Swing. 63
Breaking Bit, 116
Breeching, Cart Harness, 96
. Van Harness, 149
Bridle. 70
Hides, 38
Bridoon Bits, 112, 114, 115
Bronzing for Leather, 48
Brown Gear Hides, 40
• — — Harness Hides, 40
Shoulders, 39
Stain, 46
Wax, 45
Brush and Bells for Bridle, 6i
Buckle Tongue Punch, 14
Buckles. 63, 118-126
Buff Hides, White, 41
Buff Middling, White Bleached,
41
Bull Hides, Enamelled, 41
Burgess's Buckles, 124
Burnisher, 44
Butts, Black Strap, 38
Buxton Bit, 115
Cab, Hansom, Harness for, 156
Harness, 156
Saddle, 156
Tree, 156
Calf-skins, 40
Cart Belly Band, 99
Collars, 75-85
Harness, 62-74
Saddles, 86-100
, Panel of, 86
, Tree for, 86
Cement, Leather, 47
Chain Front, 141
Chains, 125
, Hip-strap, 105
Chapes. 66
Chased Buckles. 123
Chatham Buckles, 125
Cli6ckGrs 20
Cheek Curb Bit, Globe, 114
Chin Strap. 71
Clamp or Clams, 24
Clip, Hame, 123
Clout Nails, 34
Coacli Hides, 41
Collar, Cart, 75-85
, Lining, 78
, Pipe, 77
Rod, Iron, 27
Side-piece, 83
- — , Van, 128
Coloured Flocks, 36
Couplings for Plough Gear, 110
Compasses, 21
, Race, 21
Composition, Harness, 48
Corner-piece, Nose-band, 69
Cow-backs, Japanned, 38
Cow^-hides, Enamelled, 41
Creased Loop, Box, 57
Creases, 19
Crew Punch, 14
Crupper, Cart Harness, 93
Dock. 143
>5S
I/akx£Ss Making.
Crupper, Van Harness, 145
Curb Bit, 115
, Globe Cheek, 114
Cut Tacks, 34
Cutter, Washer, 15
Cutting Board, 42
Gauge, 10, 11
Pliers, 27
Cutting up Hides, 42
Dees, Breeching, 148
Diaper Webs, 45
Dock, 146
Double-rein Hides, 39
Dress Spurs, 116
Drummed Flocks, 36
Dye, 35
Dyeing, Iron Liquor for, 45
Ear-piece, 69
Edge Trimmers, 12
Enamelled Hides, 41
Exercising Bit, 116
Face-pieces, Biass, 63
Farm Harness, Oil for, 47
Felt, 36
Files, 29
Flap Hides, Japanned, 38
Flocks, 36
Flour Paste, 45
Fly-terrets, 124
Foot-rule, 21
Fore Gear and Leader Harness,
101-106
Forehead Band, 68
• , Van Harness, 141
Forewale, 76
I'ork, straining, 29
Four-wheel Cab Harness, 156
Gauge, Cutting, 10, 11
. Plough, 11
Gear Buckles, Scotch, 63
Hides, Brown, 40
, Plough. 107-110
, Shaft. 62
Gig Curb Bit. 115
Harness, 127
Snaffle, 113
Gilding Leather, 43
Girth, Cart Saddle, 91
Chape Punch, 15
, Van Harness, 137
Webs, 44
Globe Cheek Curb Bit, 114
Hackney Bits, 112, 113
Half-moon Scalloping Irons, 16
Hame Clip, 125
Knobs, Brass, 63
Plates, Brass, 63
Straps, 93
Tug Loops, 153
Hames, 124-125
Hammer, 17
Hand Knife, 10
Punch, 15
Hand-iron, 23
Hansom Cab Harness, 156
Saddle, 156
Hard Wax, 31
Harness, Cab, 127-156
, Cart, 62-74
— — Composition, 46
, Fore Gear and Leader,
101-106
, Gig, 127
Jet, 47
Oil, 47
, Plough, 107-110
, Van, 127-156
• Waterproof Paste, 47
Head Knife, 10
Strap, 73
Head-collar Rein Backs, 39
Hearts, Brass, 63
Hemp, 30, 33
Hides, 37-42
, Cutting up, 42
Hind Tugs, 97
Hip-strap Chains, 103
Hog-skins, 40
Hook, Plough Back-band, 107
•, Wire, 61
Horse Hides, Japanned, 38
Horsehair, Curled, 36
Housing, Cart Saddle, 92
Iron Collar Rod, 27
, Hand, 23
Liquor for Dyeing, 45
— , Palm, 25
-, Pricking, 18
, Scalloping, 16
Seat, 27
Jambles Plates, 63
Japanned Hides, 33
Nails, 34
Welting Seals, 38
Winker Hides, 38
Jet, Harness, 47
Knives, 10
Lace Needles, 53
Ladies' Horse Bits, 112
Spurs, 116
Stirrups, 117
Lash, Throat, 73
Lead Piece for Punching, 16
Leader Harness, Fore Gear and,
101-106
Leather, 37-42
, Bronzing. 48
■ Cement, 47
, Fancy, 41
Index.
159
Leather Preserver, 47
, Patent, Reviver for, 46
. Testing Quality of, 41
Lignum-vitfe Round Mallet, 17
Linen Threads, 30
Lining Cart Saddle Panel, 87
— Collar, 78
Winkers, 127
Liverpool Bits, 114
Loin Straps, 93
Loop, Box, 57
, Creasing, 59
Leather, Dyeing, 35
, Pipe, 57
, Running, 49, 57
Looping, 57-61
Loop-sticks, 28
Machine, Slitting, 11
Mallets, 17
Materials, 50-48
Melbourne Buckles, 124
Middling, White Bleached Buff,
41
Mill Bands, 40
Nail-claw, 27
Nails, 34, 35
Needles, 22
, Threading, 51
Nipple, Hand Punch, 16
Nose-band, 63
, Van Harness, 140
Octagons, Brass, 63
Officers' Spurs, 116
Oil, Harness, 47
Oval Punch, 13, 14
Ovals, Brass. 63
Ox Hides, Enamelled, 41
Palm-iron, 23
Panel, Cart Saddle, 86
, Van Saddle, 134
Paring Knife, 10
Paste, 45, 127
, Brass Polisliing, 47
, Harness, 47
Patent Leatlier Reviver, 46
Pelham Bits, 112
Snaffles, 113
Pincers, 27
Pipe' Collar, 77
Loop, 57
Plate Powder, 47
Pliers, 27
Plough Back-band Hook, 107
Gear Couplings, 110
- — - Harness, 107-110
Plough-gauge, 11
Pocket-book or Purse Hides, 40
Polishing Paste, Brass, 47
Powder, Plate, 47
Preserver, Leather, 47
Prickers, Wheel, 19
Pricking-iron, 18
Punches, 13-16
Punching, Lead Piece for, 16
Purse or Pocket-book Hides, 40
Race Compasses, 21
Girth Webs, 44
Rasps, 29
Rein, 73
Backs, Head-collar, 39
Hides and Backs, 38
Stops, 156
Reins, Van Harness, 154
Reviver, Patent Leather, 46
Riding Bits, 112
— - Saddles, Stain for, 46
Rivets, 126
Roller Buckles, 12tj
Girth Webs, 44
Rosette Punches, 16
Round Awl, 22
File, 29
Knife, 10
Punch, 13, 14
Round-headed Nails, 34
Rubber, 23
Running Loop, 50, 57
Russet Brown Stain, 46
Saddle, Cab, 156
, Cart, 86-100
Girths, 91
, Hansom Cab, 156
Stain, 46
Straps, 91
, Van, 130
Safety Slipper Stirrup, 117
Scalloping Irons, 16
Scotch Brass Gear Buckles, 63
Screw Crease, 19
Race, 19
Spurs, 116
Seals, Japannei Welting, 38
Seal-skins, 41
Seat Awl, 22
Iron, 27
Sewing Awl, 21
Shaft Gear, 62
Tug Buckles, 124
Tugs, Clamp for Sewing, 24
— , Van, 151
Sheep-skins, 40
Sheep's Wool, 36
Shoulders, Hide, 38-40
Show or Stallion Bit, 116
Silk Threads, 30
Single Crease, 19
Skins, Calf, 40
, Hog, 40
, Seal, 41
, Sheep, 40
. White. 53
i6o
Harxe'S Making,
Skirt Hides and Backs, 40
Slipper Stirrups, 117
Slitting Machine, 11
Snaffles, 113, 116
Spokeshave, 11
Spur Shoulders, Black, 38
Spurs, 116
Square File, 29
Squares, Brass, 63
Slain, 35
Stains, Various, 46
Stallion or Show Bit, 116
Stars, Brass, 63
Steel Seat-iron, 27
Stirrup Hides, 40
Stirrups, 117
Stitching Awls, 21
, Back. 52
, Simple Exercises in, 49-56
with White Lace. 52
Straight Scalloping Irons, 16
Straining Fork, 29
Webs, 45
Strap, Box, 49
Butts, Black. 38
for Cart Saddle, 91
, Chin, 71
, Hajne. 99
, Head, 73
, Loin, 98
Winker, 72
Swing, Brass, 63
Swivelled Bridoon Bit, 115
Swivels, 124
Tacks, Cut, 34
Tallow. 31
Team Harness, Oil for, 47
Terrets, 124
Threads, 30, 33, 75
Throat Lash, 73
Tools, 10-29
Trace Backs, 37
, Van Harness, 153
Tree, Cab Saddle, 156
Tree, Cart Saddle, 86
, Van Saddle, 132
Trimmers, Edge, 12
Trousers Spurs, 116
Tugs, Hind, 97
Van Collar, 123
Harness, 127-155
Saddle, 130
Vandj^ke Scalloping Irons,
Vice, 27
16
Waist-belt. 49-56
Washer Cutter, 13
Waterproof Harness Paste, 47
Wax, Black, 31, 33, 45
, Brown, 45
, Hard, 31
, White. 30
V»>axed Threads, 30
W^ebs, 44, 45
Welting Seals, Japanned, 38
West End Buckles, 122-124
Weymouth Bits, 112
Wheel Prickers, 19
White Bleached Buff Middling,
41
Buff Hides, 41
Flocks, 36
Hemp Thread, 33
Lace, Stitching with, 52
Skin, 53
W^ax, 30
Wilson Snaffle, 113
Winker Hides, 38
, Japanned, 33
Straps, 72
, Van Harness, 142
Winkers, 64, 127
Wire Hook, 61
Nails. 34
Wrench, 27
Yellow Hemp Thread, 33
Slain, 43
Tufts University
200 Vy'estboro Road
North Grafton, ^AA 01 536
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Castings. How to Determine the Direction of R otation of a Motor. How to Make a Shuttle.
Armature Motor. Undertype 50- Watt Dynamo. Manchester Type 440- Watt Dynamo. Inde.x.
Decorative Designs of All Ages and for All Purposes. With
»77 Engravings and Diagramis.
Contents.— Savage Ornament. Egyptian Ornament. Assyrian Ornament Greek Orna-
ment. Romjin Ornament. Early Christian Ornament Arabic Ornament Celtic and
Scandmavian Ornaments. Mediaeval Ornament Renascence and Modem Ornaments.
Chinese Ornament Persian Ornament Indian Ornament Japanese Ornament Index.
Mounting and Framing Piciures. With 240 Engravings, etc.
Contents.- Making Picture Frames. Notes on Art Frames. Picture Frame Cramps.
Making Oxford Frames. Gilding Picture Frames. Methods of Mounting Pictures. Making
Photograph Frames. Frames covered with Plush and Cork. Hanging and Packing Pictures.
Smiths' Work. With 211 Engravings and Diagrams.
CoM/<rn/j.— Forges and Appliances. Hand Tools. Drawir.g Down and Upsetting. Welding
and launching. Conditions of Work: Principles of Formation. Bending and Ring Making.
Miscellaneous Examples of Forged Work. Cranks, Model Work, and Die Forgmg. Home-
made Forges. The Manipulation 01 Steel at the Forge. Index.
Glass Working by Heat and Abrasion. With 300 Engravings and
i>iayrams.
Contents.— AppWasic&s used in Glass Blowing. Manipulating Glass Tubing. Blowing Bulbs
and Flasks. Jointing Tubes to Bulbs forming Thistle Funnels, etc. Blowing and Etching
Glass hancy Arncles : Embossing and Gilding Flat Surfaces. Utilising Broken Glass Appara-
tus : Bonng Holes in and Riveting Glass. Hand-working of Telescof)* Specula. Turning,
Chipping, and Grinding Glass. The Manufacture of Glass. Index.
Building Model Boats. With 168 Engravings and Diagrams.
Coficenrs.— Building Model Yachts, Rigging and Sailing Model V.-xchts. Making and
Fitting Simple Model Boats. Building a Model .Atlantic Liner. Vertical Engine for a Model
Launch. Model Launch Engine with Reversing Gear, Making a Show Case for a Model
Boat Index.
Electric Bells, How to Make and Fit Them. With 163 Engravings
and Diagrams.
Con.'€>iu.— The Electric Current and the Laws that Govern it Current Conductors used
In Electric Bell Work. Wiring for Electric Bells. Elaborated Systems of Wiring ; Burglar
Alarms. Batteries for Electnc Bells. The Construction of Electric Bells, Pushes, and
Switches. Indicators for Electric Bell Systems. Index.
Bamboo Work. With 177 Engravings and Diagrams.
Contents.— Bamboo: Its Sources and Uses. How to Work Bamboo. Bamboo Tables.
Bamboo Chairs and Scots. Bamboo Bedroom Furniture. Bamboo Hall Racks and Stands.
Bamboo Music Racks. Bamboo Cabinets and Bookcases. Bamboo Window Blinds. Miscel-
laneous Articles of Bamboo. Bamboo Mail Cart Index.
[Continued on next page.
CASSELL & COMPANY, Limited, La Belle Sauvage, London, E.C.
II
** WORK" HANDBOOKS {continued).
Tazidemiy. With 108 Engravitigs and Diagrams.
Contents. —S\dno.\iiz Birds. Stuffing and Mounting Birds. Skinning and Stuffing Nfammals,
Mounting Aniniais' Homed Heads : Polishing and Mounting Horns. Skinning, Stuffing, and
Casting Fish. Preserving. Cleaning, and Dyeing Skins. Preserving Insects, and Birds' Eggs.
Cases for Mounting Specimens^ Index.
Tailoring. With 180 Engravings and Diajsn-ams.
Cci'i.c««.— Tailors' Requisites and Methods of Stitching. Simple Repairs and Pressing.
Re-lining, Re-pocketing, and Re-collaring. How to Cut and Make Trousers. How to Cut and
Make Vests. Cutting and Making Lounge and Reefer Jackets. Cutting and Making Morning
and Frock Coats, Index.
Photographic Cameras and Accessories. Comprising How to
Make Camkra?, Dark Slides, Shutters, and Stands. With 240 lUustrations.
Om/^w/j.— Photographic Lenses and how to Test them. Modern Half plate Cameras.
Hand and Pocket Cameras. Ferrotype Cameras. Stereoscopic Cameras. Enlarging Cameras.
Dark Slides. Exposure Shutters. Camera Stands. Index.
Optical Lanterns. Comprising The Construction and Management
OF Optical Lanterns and the making of Slides. With 160 Illustrations.
Contents. Single Lanterns. Dissolving View Lanterns. Illuminants lor Optical Lanterns,
Optical Lantern Accessories. Conducting a Limelight Lantern Exhibition. Experiments
with Optical Lanterns. Painting Lantern Slides. Photographic Lantern Slides. Mechanical
Lantern Slides. Cinematograph Management. Index.
Engraving Metals. With 117 Illustrations.
contents. — Introduction and Terms ixsed. Engravers' Tools and their Uses. Elementary
Exercises in Engraving. Engraving Plate and Precious Metals. Engraving Monograms.
Transfer Processes of Engraving Metals. Engraving Name Plates. Engraving Coffin Plates.
Engraving Steel Plates. Chasing and Embossing Metals. Etching Metals. Index.
Basket Work. With 189 Illustrations.
Ccft'ents —Tcols and Materials. Simple Baskets. Grocers' Square Baskets. Round
Baskets Oval Baskets. Flat Fruit Baskets. Wicker Elbow Chairs. Basket Bottle-casmgs.
Doctors' and Chemists' Baskets. Fancy Basket Work. Sussex Trug Basket. Miscellaneous
Basket Work. Index.
Bookbinding. With 125 Engravings and Diagrams.
CofWcwtr.— Bookbinders' Appliances. Folding Printed Bonk Sheets. Beating and Sewing.
Rounding. Packing, and Cover Cutting. Cutting Book Edges. Covering Books. Cloth-
bound Books, Pamphlets, etc. Accofint Books, Ledgers, etc. Colouring and Marblmg
Book Edges. Gilding Book Edges. Sprinkling and Marbling Book Covers. Gddmg and
Ornamenting Book Covers. Index.
Bent Ironwork. Including Elementary Art Metal Work. With
269 Engravings and Designs.
C<w/««£r.— Tools and Materials. Bending and Working-Strip Iron. Simple Exercises in
Bent Iron. Floral Ornaments for Bent Ironwork— Candlesticks, Hall Lanterns, Screens,
Grilles, etc.. Table Lamps, Suspended Lamps and Flower Bowls, Photograph Frames,
Newspaper Rack. Floor Lamps, Miscellaneous Examples. Index.
Photography. With 70 Engravings and Diagrams.
Contents. — The Camera and its Accessories. The Studio and Darkroom. Plates. Ex.
posure. Developing and Fixing Negatives. Intensificarion and Reduction of Negatives.
Portraiture and Picture Composition. Flashlight Photography. Retouching Negatives,
Processes of Printing from Negatives. Mounting and Finishing Prints. Copymg and
Enlarging. Stereoscopic Photography. Ferrotype Photography, Index.
Upholstery. With 162 Engravings and Diagrams.
Con ents.— Upholster rs' Materials. Upholsterers' Tool-. Webbing, Sprirgirg, Stuffing,
and Tuitiiig. Maki. g Seat Cushions and Squabs. Upholstering an Easy Ch-ir. Upholster-
ing Couches :^nd Sofas UphoKtering Footstools, Fenderett' s, etc. Miscellant^ons Up-
holstery Mattress Making and Repairing Ren vati- g and Repairing Upholstered
Furniture. C^irpet Planning aid Laying. Linoleum Laying. Fancy Upholstery. Iiide.x.
Leather Working. With 152 Engravings and Diagrams.
Ccm'enis —Qualities and Varieties of Leather. Strap Cutting and flaking. Letter Cases
and Writing Pads. Hair Brush and Collar Cases. Hat Cases. Banjo and Mandoline Cases.
Bags. Portmanteaux and Travelling Trunk;. Knaps icks and Satchels. Leather Orna-
mentition. Footballs. Dyeing Leather. Miscellaneous Examples of Leather Work. Index.
Saddlery. With qg Engravings and Diagrams,
C£>«^d'««.— Gentleman's Riding Saddle. Panel for Gentleman's Saddle. Ladies' Side
Sadd.es. Children's Saddles or Pilches. Saddle Cruppers, Breastplates, and other Acces-
sories. Riding Bridles. Breakirg-down Tackle. Head Collars. Hurse Clothing. Knee-caps
and Miscellaneous Articles. Repairing H Tiiess and Sadalery. Re-lining Collars and Saddles.
Riding ana Driving Whips. Superior Set of Gig Harness.
Harness Making. With 197 E-gravings and Diagrams.
Cc;;ii'!;«;j. — Harness-makers' Tools. Harne=s-makf rs' Materials. Simple Exercises in
Stitching. Looping. Cart Harness. Cart -c liars. Cart Saddles. Fore Gear and Leader
Harness. Plough Harness. Bits, Spurs, Stirrups, and Harness Furniture. Van and Cab
Harness.
Other Volumes in Preparation.
CASSELL & COMPANY, Limited, La Belle Sauvage, London, B.C.
Covers.] . HI
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